Disco1BFG said:
Another vote for converting the rust before doing anything else.... my own preferance is for Fertan, which need water to work, and I like the irony ;) ....

Then paint with an etch primer, and then I use tractol paint ( on eblag ), as it is solvent based, and quite unpleasant toxicity wise .... ( take precautions )...

Undersides I use fertan as required, and then coat with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax - I'd suggest this might be useful on your damaged powder coated stuff too, as it will creep under the powder coat, keeping the water out...

Sadly, there will be rust you have missed on your tanks - if you apply a converter, you'll get to see the rust being destroyed in the tiny pits which you can't get to .... not even sandblasting can get to them all .... ask me how I know :rolleyes: .....
Click to expand...

I am a big fan of fertan as well (not on my skin) - it works really well and you dont need to over coat it immediately.

for a zinc rich primer I like bonda-prime
 
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Also ref powder coating the fuel tank - you may not drop it but what if a stone flies up when you are driving and chips it?
 
As you guys like the towing assembly, I thought I would attach another photo. That plate is 50 mm thick. NB the bracket bolts have not been tightened yet, in case it needs to come off for painting! I do not want to waste those Nyloc nuts.
Some of the brackets had a single coat of the dreaded Hammerite, I will paint the lot once everything is buttoned up, but with what ...............?
I did use the POR15 on the tanks, but Ferlan and Tractol look good products, everyone has their favourites, but if POR15 is good enough for Jay Leno......

Tow bar mounting plate 1.jpg
 
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There is another failing in the powder coating of the chassis: in that indentation (what is that for?) there was a scab in the coating. when I poked it with a stick, some grey powder fell away. there are another couple of more hidden areas with similar powder scabs. I am not certain if that is residue from the grit blasting or some sort of reaction from the galvanising. Let's just say if I was getting a chassis coated again, i doubt I would take up the offer of powder coating
 
Sorry to bore you, but this is probably useful to anyone considering using POR15:
I am now reading that there are issues regarding shelf life on this product. I have been using the 113 ml x 6 pack. It applies well and looks durable (although I also hear it does not adhere well to polished surfaces)
But, it has "bits" in the finish, and looks awful. I used a brand new brush on the second coat and had more warmth in the "paint shop" and that coat is no better. I used the POR15 Prep and Ready as per instructions.
I can only conclude it has a short shelf life, I think mine are getting on for 5 years old. I now wish I had used Hammerite! I now have an inverse hammered finish, I am seriously miffed: does anyone want to buy a 127 FFR?
 
Awesome thread! Loads of good advice on here too! Hand painting primer take a look at corroless rust primer mate. I did my d1 with bonda primer or electrox with epoxy mastic paint ontop. For ease though and to save throwing a load of names at you, I’d go corroless or bonda for your primer for sure! Fertan anything you can prior to it going on too. Bonda sticks really well. I’ve just ordered a load of corroless for another project but will put some pics on here once I’ve painted some bits with it. I’m gunning that on but you can hand paint. As the gent said above - instead of wax oil on inside, have a look at bilt hamber dynax cans with the 360 lance on. Very simple to use and decent stuff! Feed it through your chassis holes and it will coat the lot. I’ve just done my 90 chassis with 2 big cans.

top coat go for any of the above or if you got the funds epoxy mastic. I then coat in wax again. Lanoguard or again bilt hamber will sort you with that. Doing this prior to any body parts going on will give huge advantage.

apologies if rambled - we have a close relationship with rust lol
 
Thanks guys, your knowledge on these products is indeed impressive. I have not even heard of any of these makes.
I thought I was tooled up when I had the chassis surrounded by Hammerite, POR15, Rustbuster and one other recommended product that I cannot recall the name of, but I gave it away in the end.
I went Rustbuster route for the chassis, as I had been persuaded that 2 pack was superior to single. But I mixed too much and tried to use it out, as it turned to gloop: Thus it looked s***e: Operator error

I am not certain if my missus has put you up to supplying all these different products, after she witnessed me going into meltdown in B&Q's emulsion section. Even before we broached colours.
Do we go for Dulux, Crown or Diall? Do we go for "one coat" (minimum of two needed)? Do we go for Trade? or is that thinner, thus needing more coats?
Are we choosing Matt or Silk? Look there's Satin ? What the hell is Soft sheen? Eggshell ?.....hell no: let's use that old tin of hammered Hammerite instead!
 
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No worries. Shout if you want some links to products - a lot to digest but it’s honestly not complex at all
 
Send us those links resto.
I am interested how you would approach restoring a section of aluminium gone all powdery (where the radio antennae steel boxes bolted to the front wing tops)
The remaining pieces I need to paint are small pieces that have been anodised. So I am only looking to give them a coat of satin black, to match the colour of the chassis powder coating.
I will also use it to paint any nuts and bolt heads of fixtures bolted through or on to the chassis. Sinful I know, but Hammerite is still beckoning me
 
Wouldn’t know with the alli - I’ll be asking same question to bilt hamber.

Primer - bonda primer or corroless - google will reveal both
Top coat - corroless glass reinforced top coat or bilt hamber epoxy mastic.
fertan - used to neutralize rust - needs washing after so cannot be used internally
Cavity wax - bilt hamber website and you’ll find dynax. Think dynax s50 is cavity.
Exterior wax - bilt hamber website -dynax UB.

sounds like you’ve already done main bits now though. Before you bolt things like rear shock mounts on - coat it with wax. Inside spring hangers - coat with wax before you fit springs. Same for shock turrets. Fill all the chassis with dynax - well worth doing
 
Slow progress, but the engine is now in the chassis. The rocker box covers are away for powder coating.
Not certain whether it was the MOD or the owners since, but on the engine: both the sump and exhaust manifolds/block had no gaskets fitted!
The diff lock lever linkage had snapped, and I my local Landy man made me a replacement from an old bent push rod!
Usual excessive cleaning of the engine and gearbox, and all metal parts associated with the handbrake abraded and painted.
I am embarrassed to admit I do not recall where that "clip" comes from that is sat on top of the handbrake drum....!
Just across is the handbrake "oil catcher" what a strange concept, why not just drill a hole in the lowest part of the drum, for if the oil seal leaks?

IMG_8304[1].JPG
 
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Phil, you were correct: it was still attached to the speedo!

Here's a bit more fun.
Do you know what this is? I do but the mystery is the way the hose is connected. NB My 127 (big beast is first first clue) and had an LPG system fitted (2nd clue)
Answers on a post card

GetAttachmentThumbnail
 
Looks like a fuel switch. Most likely because you run two fuel tanks.
I would say the loop of the pipe was to stop the fuel ****ing out when it was disconnected.
 
Spot on Bob: Tecalemit 3 way valve for returning fuel to the tank that is supplying. I ran it on LPG for the short time I drove it, I am not certain why they did that with the hose as the return pipework is all intact.
Whilst I have your attention Bob, does yours have two longer bolts for mounting the brake and clutch pedal boxes ? . Mine does I cannot account for why two bolts are longer than the rest !
 
From memory the brake and clutch are completely separate mountings.
I will have a look for you tomorrow though.
I am assuming that you feel the bolts could be all the same length?
 
Yes, 10 are of the same length, with 2 longer. I thought perhaps they held a bracket above the clutch pedal to mount the return spring to (hence I fitted them in the top two holes) .
But I found a drawing showing that spring attached to the right hand bolt above. Those bolts are pretty unique in that they have a shoulder on the end, and a slot part way down the thread, so I am not mixing bolts, do you know why they are like that? I have handled plenty of bolts in my time and have never seen anything like these!
The icing on the cake is one plain washer is twice as thick as the others (under spring clip bolt) Why? But that washer is not as thick as I have been in my attention to detail during the strip down
GetAttachmentThumbnail
GetAttachmentThumbnail
GetAttachmentThumbnail
 
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