Turboman
Mab An Gov
Very. But even on a vehicle, measurement is a poor solution.Good job it's only a Land Rover...
Dimensions vary with temperature, and over time with distortion, corrosion, and various other factors.
If you fit the bulkhead, and attach the doors, and get them to open an close nicely with the slams set in a nice central position, you can then set the bulkhead using the spacers on the bolts, and you will still be left with a bit of all round adjustment on the slams to fine tune it when all assembled. Because the bulkhead probably wont be in exactly the same position when you have replaced the wings, etc.
Knackered from the 400 mile drive to Brightwells.
I'm now at an impasse.
I need to get it MOT'd and that means fixing the headlight flash, which doesn't work. I called around a few auto electrics places and they are £60+VAT/hour+travel AND they can't even look at mine for a month.
I can have a go, but the wiring diagram that you very kindly showed me is too small for me to read.
Any suggestions?
I'm now at an impasse.
I need to get it MOT'd and that means fixing the headlight flash, which doesn't work. I called around a few auto electrics places and they are £60+VAT/hour+travel AND they can't even look at mine for a month.
I can have a go, but the wiring diagram that you very kindly showed me is too small for me to read.
Any suggestions?
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Maybe buy a new switch from Paddock and fit it yourself?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Do your fog lights work?
There is a relay in the old landie a to prevent high beam & fog light at the same time.
I have a switch in dash for my high beam which overrides the stalk. As long as it’s marked up & lights blue in the dash warning mot man will be fine
There is a relay in the old landie a to prevent high beam & fog light at the same time.
I have a switch in dash for my high beam which overrides the stalk. As long as it’s marked up & lights blue in the dash warning mot man will be fine
v8250
Well-Known Member
@Wolf Pack ,
1. get into Halfords and buy a Haynes manual - all the wiring diagrams are towards the rear
2. if only the headlight flasher [left hand stalk, pull to 'flash'/push for full beam] you should first check the wiring as it could be something as just a bad/poor connection - you need to use a DVM set to 20VDC range to ensure you're getting a clean 12v - do this by 1. disconnect full beam wires from flasher stalk connector then operate full beam [flasher] and measure between full beam terminal and earth...if no 12VDC then it's most likely the stalk needs replacing. If you have 12VDC at the stalk terminal with full beam/flasher then your fault lies in the wires from the stalk to the headlights, if this...
3. reconnect wiring at full beam/flasher stalk, then disconnect wires from rear of headlights...then connect an extended wire from the headlights back to your DVM +Ve [check wire continuity], then check for 12v - this will identify if it's the left or right wiring that's at fault. If both failing to give 12v the fault is in the dash.
The above may sound lengthy but it's less than 30mins to complete...
Oh, and do buy a Haynes manual...it's actually very good
1. get into Halfords and buy a Haynes manual - all the wiring diagrams are towards the rear
2. if only the headlight flasher [left hand stalk, pull to 'flash'/push for full beam] you should first check the wiring as it could be something as just a bad/poor connection - you need to use a DVM set to 20VDC range to ensure you're getting a clean 12v - do this by 1. disconnect full beam wires from flasher stalk connector then operate full beam [flasher] and measure between full beam terminal and earth...if no 12VDC then it's most likely the stalk needs replacing. If you have 12VDC at the stalk terminal with full beam/flasher then your fault lies in the wires from the stalk to the headlights, if this...
3. reconnect wiring at full beam/flasher stalk, then disconnect wires from rear of headlights...then connect an extended wire from the headlights back to your DVM +Ve [check wire continuity], then check for 12v - this will identify if it's the left or right wiring that's at fault. If both failing to give 12v the fault is in the dash.
The above may sound lengthy but it's less than 30mins to complete...
Oh, and do buy a Haynes manual...it's actually very good
Is this the recommended Haynes?: https://www.halfords.com/tools/gara...0-110-and-defender-83---07-manual-936674.html
Looks like the first one I bought is the earlier edition.
Looks like the first one I bought is the earlier edition.
I'm off to LHR today, but I had a quick look with my meter and wasn't getting many readings at all, such is the corrosion.
I looked in the older Haynes and there's no instructions about disassembling the actual fuses from the plastic panel insert.
I am hesitant to just pull at them with pliers.
Any pointers much appreciated.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
I just removed the glass fuses & cleaned up the contacts. Still work fine
Never tried to remove out the plastic
Never tried to remove out the plastic
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Oooop thought your motor was older.
It's a 1997 Wolf, one of the now infamous Somali Wolves that spent six months at sea as deck cargo...Oooop thought your motor was older.
v8250
Well-Known Member
Have you checked for pirates under the seat box...?
Re' fuse box, it just unscrews. Isolate battery +Ve & -Ve then pull connector and fuses, clean all terminal + fuse box. Soak off crud with WD40, wipe clear then use gently clean up with 1200grade...re-assemble, job done
Have you checked for pirates under the seat box...?
Re' fuse box, it just unscrews. Isolate battery +Ve & -Ve then pull connector and fuses, clean all terminal + fuse box. Soak off crud with WD40, wipe clear then use gently clean up with 1200grade...re-assemble, job done
Do you mean just pull each fuse, or separate the harness from the panel as well?
Attachments
v8250
Well-Known Member
1. photograph with mobile the complete area from all angles, paying particular attention to where each wire goes
2. pull all fuses and wires
3. clean all that crud off both sides of the fuse box terminals and each wire crimp connector
4. wipe down/clean all your wires and inspect for bad insulation condition and secure wire crimps
4. re-assemble and test
Just make sure it's clean with perfect contacts...
@Turboman:
Do you mean the column dip/horn/high beam switch?
@v8250:
I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled and no change.
Also changed the fuse.
Plenty of voltage to the horn, but it doesn't work. Attached an external earth wire and tried it to a number of places and no change.
To change the column switch (which I have on hand), I need to get the steering wheel off, but there are no threaded holes for a puller.
Any ideas?
Do you mean the column dip/horn/high beam switch?
@v8250:
I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled and no change.
Also changed the fuse.
Plenty of voltage to the horn, but it doesn't work. Attached an external earth wire and tried it to a number of places and no change.
To change the column switch (which I have on hand), I need to get the steering wheel off, but there are no threaded holes for a puller.
Any ideas?
