Last weekend I found that my 110 cut out. As if the crank sensor had been unplugged, car had power but engine was dead. Restarted no problem. Was rolling downhill, slowly toward some gates when it happened. That happened twice.

Third time was at idle on my drive, i wasnt in the car and it cut out.

Happened yesterday morning on the road, bit scary but luckily empty.

Then 3 times in a row trying to reverse out of work. Seemed to happen exactly as I went into reverse.

Drove home fine, 70 on the mway for 45mins.

Got homr same thing died 3 times trying to get in the garage. Eventually did.

Nanocom read - 8, 6 MIL Lamp Drive Over Temp - not sure what that refers to.

Changed the crank sensor last night for a new intermotor one - started and drove fine.

This morning, dead on the key. Electrical power but no warning lights at all. Started after pressing the unlock button but shortly cut out.

Also now met with 2,8 ambient pressuee circuit & 4,3 coolant temo circuit. There where not there last night and i havnt driven anywhere started it since last night.

Any suggestions?

Just tried to drive to work. Totally dead on the key now.

Ignition

The white cable is the culprit

Have I got to change the whole barrel assembly or can I just change the contacts on the back?

Secondly can the barrel be changed to suit my current key?

You can just change the switch, which is the bit the contacts are mounted on. It’s held in with two small screws, you can see the first one in your picture on the side of the barrel. The other is diametrically opposite and is fiddly as hell to get to, removing the barrel from the car solves that problem but can be a fiddle in and of itself due to the shear bolts.

Handy to know!!! Thank you!

So it may well be just the crimp. I cha ged that this morning, fired up straight away and not amount of wiggling would make it cut out. 75miles later to and from work its still spot on.

Removing the barrel could be tricky as ive aslo got the Xeng colum lock!