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ellebarto

Active Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #1

I was complaing about the turning circle on my landy when one of the mechanics across the road just commented, screw your stops right in and that will make it loads better.

It was just a throw away comment and off he went. Can anyone shed any light on what he meant and if there is something simple I can do to improve the turning circle?

 

Station House

Well-Known Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #2

On the rear of each front wheel (swivel pin housing) you will see a bolt which extends backwards and also holds the disc mud guard on

As you turn the steering, these bolts hit the chassis to limit the travel.

You can alter the point at which they hit the chassis to alter the turning circle, but you need to ensure that you do not screw them in so much that the tyre catches on anything on full lock, and that you don't harm the steering - not sure if it's possible to adjust so much that it would damage steering components

 

Last edited: Oct 28, 2011

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ellebarto

Active Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #3

Ah!!! Fantastic. Thanks for the quick reply! Time to experiment then!

 

mundungus

Active Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #4

The workshop manual says to adjust them so that on full lock, the wheel is no closer that 2cm to the radius arm.

 

Station House

Well-Known Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #5

Have fun

Suggest turning the steering on full right lock - see how close the inside rear edge of the tyre is to the radius arm.

Believe the factory spec is 51mm or 54mm.

If yours is more than that, adjust to factory spec (need to do both sides!) and see how you get on.

Am sure you can take it down below 50mm, but not sure how far you can go

 

Station House

Well-Known Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #6

mundungus said:

The workshop manual says to adjust them so that on full lock, the wheel is no closer that 2cm to the radius arm.

Click to expand...

That gives an awful lot more room for adjustment then - my 51mm figure came from the Paynes Manual

 

Andy Land

Well-Known Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #7

A word of advice on this ... I had to do mine when I fitted new tyres as they rubbed on full lock. The first stop lock undid no problem but the other one was seized and snapped with minimal force. I tried everywhere to get a new one but no good so I ended up having to improvise using a new bolt, nuts and several washers. Not ideal but just about works. Had I known before I would have soaked them in WD40 or similar for 24hrs beforehand.

 

Station House

Well-Known Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #8

Yep, one of mine was really stuck and needed the angle grinder treatment!

Think the heads are 17mm or 19mm

From Rave 20mm is the MINIMUM clearance

I'll try to attach the Rave page

 

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Last edited: Oct 28, 2011

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ellebarto

Active Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #9

OK, so I am actually swapping the tyres this weekend from standard to some BF Mud Terrains. Probably 265/75/16 or 265/85/16. It follows from what you guys are saying that I should do that first before I look at the stop locks and then adjust to kind of suit the tyre?

 

Oddie

AntiSeptic Sandal Wearer

• Oct 28, 2011

• #10

And because they don't catch when the vehicle is level wont mean they won't catch when you're on a slope/angle/gradient.

 

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ellebarto

Active Member

• Oct 28, 2011

• #11

Why's that? Because the suspension is under a different direction of force? Didn;t think of that. So its a little bit of trial and error then? Bit at a time then test I guess!