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martyn_h

New Member

• Dec 30, 2009

• #1

Hi All,

Just a quick question: what is the correct sealant to cure a leak where a 110 hardtop meets the body?

Or can you just undo the hardtop and re-fix a bit tighter?

It seems to be coming in on the passenger side about 300mm from the rear of the vehicle.

Thanks in advance,

Happy new year to you all.


Mart

 

MudHunter

Active Member

• Dec 30, 2009

• #2

when i got mine the previous owner had fixed all the leakes.


with cement.

 

sypher

Well-Known Member

• Dec 30, 2009

• #3

MudHunter said:

when i got mine the previous owner had fixed all the leakes.


with cement.

Click to expand...

I dont think thats gonna help much LOL , but unbolt it and re seal it .

.

 

bluehaze

Well-Known Member

• Dec 30, 2009

• #4

Mine's been done using glazing sealant and it doesn't leak

 

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martyn_h

New Member

• Dec 30, 2009

• #5

Great, thanks for the info.

Any ideas on the best place to buy a new seal (if there is such a part)?

Or a recommended sealant?

Thanks.

 

Chur

New Member

• Dec 31, 2009

• #6

A new seal could work. The odds are you will need to seal it yourself anyway.

If you want to do a proper job I'd stay away from run of the mill silicone type sealants available from the likes of B&Q etc. I'd pay the extra coin and go for something from the Sikaflex stable. I cant remember the product number, but the one I'm familiar with was an automotive adhesive-sealant. It had a seal on the rear that you had to break before loading it into the sealant gun.

Clean and degrease the area with panel wipe / brake cleaner to improve adhesion. You can then load the gap with the Sikaflex. Use a wetted finger to smooth it down and get a good finish. You can also use masking tape to get a good edge. The Sikaflex will cure, but allow movement and shouldn't come unstuck again unlike cheapo stuff.

Hope this helps.

 

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Sean

Banned

• Dec 31, 2009

• #7

martyn_h said:

Or a recommended sealant?

Click to expand...

DUM DUM Sealing Compound (400g) (N240) - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

 

tyclyd

Active Member

• Dec 31, 2009

• #8

Hi, I always use Sikaflex 291 - its excellent and highly recommended for the sort of application you have in mind.

 

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martyn_h

New Member

• Dec 31, 2009

• #9

Great.

I'll pick up some proper stuff then...

With regard to unbolting the hard top, any tips for that?

Thanks for the info.

 

larrynumber1

New Member

• Dec 31, 2009

• #10

With regard to unbolting the hard top, any tips for that?

Click to expand...

its easy really just m10 bolts all round,

and you might want a second pair of hands to lift it clear thats all

 

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onelife

New Member

• Dec 31, 2009

• #11

you could try Captain Jacks (I think) creeping crack cure. worked on my series.

 

bustersbus

Well-Known Member

• Dec 31, 2009

• #12

martyn_h said:

With regard to unbolting the hard top, any tips for that?

Click to expand...

The way ah did it was to remove the roof and sides along with the windscreen. Ah couldn't be bothered removin' the head liner... and as ah was changing the bulkhead anyways...

If ye do it this way, then it gives ye a chance to bung some sealant along the top of the bulkhead anaw.

There's 4 double bolt type things (2 in the rear corners and 2 just behind the doors), there should be 4 fixings along the inside of the cappings (2 each side fur a 110) and then undo the hinge from the windscreen then lift roof on one side and stick a bit of wood in and then workin' round to the other side (Ye can do this yerself).
After that, it's up to you weather ye want to fit new seals or just run some sealant.

Or ye could just fill the gap without removin' the sides

 

Last edited: Dec 31, 2009

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thetim

Well-Known Member

• Jun 22, 2018

• #13

Forgive me resurrecting a really old thread, but - I'm fitting some 110 hardtop panels and need new hardtop-to-body seals. Does anyone know the difference between the later Defender seals (expensive) and the earlier Defender / Series 3 seals (cheap)?