congo181 · Apr 25, 2021

Hi all. Just about to remove the engine on my ‘87 2.5NA 110.
All the ancillaries are off and today I looked at the motor mounts and bell housing.
So question. The left side motor mount, how do you access the bottom 19mm bolt to the crankcase? It seems that the mount is too narrow for an open ended and the mount stud gets in the way of a ring. Any pointers?
Also, I’ve cracked all the bottom bell housing nuts. How many are there in total that need removing?
Thanks all. Jim

jamesmartin · Apr 25, 2021

congo181 said:
Hi all. Just about to remove the engine on my ‘87 2.5NA 110.
All the ancillaries are off and today I looked at the motor mounts and bell housing.
So question. The left side motor mount, how do you access the bottom 19mm bolt to the crankcase? It seems that the mount is too narrow for an open ended and the mount stud gets in the way of a ring. Any pointers?
Also, I’ve cracked all the bottom bell housing nuts. How many are there in total that need removing?
Thanks all. Jim

why not remove the bracket when engines out

congo181 · Apr 25, 2021

Hi James. I’m working from the Haynes manual (don’t be a hater

) which tells me to remove the mounts to enable me to lower the motor to get to the upper bell housing nuts.
Seems to make sense but happy for any and all alternatives.
Cheers. Jim

jamesmartin · Apr 25, 2021

congo181 said:
Hi James. I’m working from the Haynes manual (don’t be a hater ) which tells me to remove the mounts to enable me to lower the motor to get to the upper bell housing nuts.
Seems to make sense but happy for any and all alternatives.
Cheers. Jim

removing the rubber mounts should be enough

congo181 · Apr 25, 2021

jamesmartin said:
removing the rubber mounts should be enough

So removing the runner mounts completely will allow the motor to drop down? Cool thanks.

Flossie · Apr 26, 2021

I'd spend a bit of time removing the gearbox tunnel and bulkhead cover.
Makes access for stuff so much easier. It's usually a pita to get the floor plates out due to rusty bolts along the sills but if it's a keeper it's worth getting it all off and refitting with stainless steel fasteners then next time you need to do it it's a quick 20min job.

congo181 · Apr 26, 2021

That’s a good shout. It also would give me a chance to see the box up close.
The transfer is clean but there’s a leak somewhere in there that should be dealt with.
Thanks.

congo181 · Apr 26, 2021

Yup. That’s a lot easier. Only got the two sill screws to drill out on the LHS as well.
Bit worse on the RHS but nothing the angle grinder will be afraid of.

congo181 · Apr 26, 2021

And there is was gone.

congo181 · Apr 26, 2021

OK so the motor is out, now to clean it.
My plan was to remove all the electrics, plug all the holes and then de-grease and pressure wash - does that sound about right?
I was also considering hiring a steam cleaner and doing the chassis prior to some kind of treatment.
Any thoughts or advice on best way to de-grease and clean the motor initially?
Cheers,
JIm

lynall · Apr 26, 2021

congo181 said:
And there is was gone. View attachment 236764

That is how I have done mine, but do remove the engine rubber mounts before refitting the engine as it makes life a whole lot easier as it gves you more room to wiggle about as you line up gbox and engine, then bolt engine to gbox and then lift it high enough to refit the mounts.
Clean up the rubber mounts M10 threads, and use the serrated flanged nuts as they can be spun up with your finger so making them less of an ahole to tighten! also a good idea to use the same nuts on the engine to gbox mounts studs, and and (2 x ands there!) best of all M10 serrated nuts use a 15mm spanner so making it even easier fo access.

Just had a thought, pls check yours are in fact M10!

Like these, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224296179533?hash=item343918174d:g:iwsAAOSwm0tf6tya

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