Duncydoo

Active Member
OK I've had a good look about and despite lots of posts on breaks I can't find an answer.

I'm slowly upgrading all the bits of my Landy that I can afford to do as I can afford them if that makes sense. With a little one coming along in the next month I'm wanting to make the Landy as safe as I can and the breaks seem like a good mod to get done.

Having spoken to Strathern Engineering up here about fitting green stuff pads and matching disks. Their comment was that yes they are good but that they wear out quickly and I would be better fitting 110 vented front breaks. That would give me extra stopping but also longevity.

I know its a defender and it'll not stop like my car but does anyone have any experience/view on this proposed upgrade?:confused:
 
disco 1 rear axle for rear discs cheap to do

How do you know that his 90 isn't a later one with rear disc already??

@Duncydoo. IME the green stuff pads are very good. The D110 with vented discs had very large 4 pot calipers on the front, which will be a bolt on fit. They had sprung pins for pad replacement which is much nicer arrangement than the long split pins that are the normal on LR disc brakes.

I would also recommend fitting braided flexible hoses to improve pedal effort and even a new brake master cylinder will help to.

The last thing often over looked is changing the brake fluid every 2 years as it absorbs water and become less effective.
 
Sorry should have given more detail. I have discs all round just now. Also just looking to make the swap on the front.
 
thanks Andy sounds like the new calipers may be a good idea the. I was going to change to braided hoses just to be thorough. I'll also do the brake fluid as you suggest.

I hadn't thought about the master cylinder, how easy is it to do, how much of a difference do you think it will make?
 
I hadn't thought about the master cylinder, how easy is it to do, how much of a difference do you think it will make?

Can be a bit of a fiddle but worth it. If the master cylinder is not tip top then you won't benefit fully from the rest of the mods; given that the m/c is first link in the chain :)
 
Of course, but did he say my fully disc braked land rover?
 
I did all the brake disks and calipers, put on the ebc green pads, did the hoses too and the master cylinder, made a huge difference at the time. Later on, someone else had a go in my landy, thought the brakes were iffy, and I found out my servo was completely humped - I only wish I'd checked that out before doing all the other stuff. Doh!
 
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Anyone got an easy way of telling if everything is in order? pads & Discs are easy enough but how to I check things like the sevo and the master cylinder??
 
Anyone got an easy way of telling if everything is in order? pads & Discs are easy enough but how to I check things like the sevo and the master cylinder??
Drive down the road. Apply the brakes. Did it stop? Did it pull to one side? Alternatively ask your friendly local garage to test the brake performance for you.
 
I'm about to fit my newly refurbed 110 front calipers that I fitted new pistons and seals Sunday to a soon to be refurbed 90 axle with 4.7 ratio diffs for my 90. 110 front pistons are considerably bigger than RR or disco/90 pistons. I am also converting the rears to disks, again salisbury 110 rear axle which poses a question:

Do I need to get a 110 master cylinder due to more fluid volume to be moved? I have a low pedal at the moment due to 11 inch rear drums and only a 90 master cylinder.

Then again as the rears will be disks and not wheel cylinders so the volume reduced there. So overall I'm not sure might have to do some maths again. and see how much I'm down I cant see any point in going vented unless you get brake fade, I never do so have just got some new disks and standard pads.
 
I fitted the large callipers from a 1992 110 station wagon on my 1990 90 and it stopped on a dime
They are a lot bigger than the ones fitted to disco RR and later Defenders
 

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