Hi have bled the brakes on my Series 3 previously with a "one-man bleed kit" from Halfords as usually the missus is out and I don't have anyone to grab to help when I happen to work on the car.

It has worked reasonably well in the past. But I've just replaced some brake lines and put some new brake shoes and pistons on...

This time when I've tried to bleed the breaks with the one-manner I get constant air bubbles in the tube. To the point where I've gone through a ton of DOT4 trying to get the air out to no avail.

I've tried not undoing the nipples very much but can't eliminate the air. The pedal needs pumping a few times on a test drive before I get any brakes at all and it is quite a soft and spongy experience. But the reservoir stays full, master cylinder looks ok and dry and the brakes do work with the air in - just not very well.

Now here is what I hoped someone with more experience could advise on! If the brake reservoir is always full and not depleting and I can't see any leaks of brake fluid anywhere on my new unions and lines - can air still get in somehow? Or is it just that the one-man bleed is a load of rubbish and is fit for the bin??

I'll borrow a friend to try to bleed them again to see if we can get better results doing it the old "two-person" way instead, but it still is on my mind that I've missed something with the new brake pistons or lines...

Thanks for any advice

There are hundreds of posts on series brakes in the search facility but they will confuse the hell out of anyone. So will this thread by the time everyone has added their never fail method.
From what I can gather you either have the touch or not and then have to try every method until you get lucky.
Strange but I have few problems with bleeding. If the first half dozen pumps ain’t working then the next 300 won’t either. Move to another method or check for leaks.
These days I go for gravity. It works for me but I know I have no other issues.
I have never owned any gizmo apart from a bit of rubber air tube from an aquarium pump and a jam jar.

I've used one man kits both successfully and unsuccessfully.

I suggest winding the adjusters fully in, have another go at bleeding, then wind adjusters out so the brakes work as they should, keeping an eye on the level in the reservoir.

Rubins4 said:

I've used one man kits both successfully and unsuccessfully.

I suggest winding the adjusters fully in, have another go at bleeding, then wind adjusters out so the brakes work as they should, keeping an eye on the level in the reservoir.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the help, so are you saying that I can try by tightening all the brake shoes right on so the wheels won't move then bleed?

Also going back to my other question - if there are no leaks coming out should the system bleed ok or can air still get in?

your obviously getting air in either at the bleed nipple,undone too much,i close the bleed nipple before pedal is allowed to rise for the next pump,or cylinder pipe joint or master cylinder,the twin front cylinder series brakes can be difficult to get all the air out as nipple is on the bottom cylinder and air tends to settle at the top,you can slacken top pipe fitting a little until clean fluid runs, tighten fitting before letting pedal up open for the press if your not using a pressure or suction method

I never had any luck with the one man bleed kit or the a gunson pressure bleed kit. I ended up going back to the tube and jar method in the end.

I have found that putting a smear of rubber grease around the bleed nipple threads stops air being pulled back in through the threads.

In addition to what James has said above, is there a pedal return spring fitted and is it pulling the pedal right back?

soydemadrid said:

Hi thanks for the help, so are you saying that I can try by tightening all the brake shoes right on so the wheels won't move then bleed?

Also going back to my other question - if there are no leaks coming out should the system bleed ok or can air still get in?

Click to expand...

As to the first bit, no you have that the wrong way round, what I'm suggesting is perhaps against logic but worked for me. By winding the adjusters fully in, you are removing volume in which any air can be caught within the cylinders. When they are in this position, undertake the bleeding process using the one man pressure system. When you have clear fluid at all wheels you then adjust the shoes to the drums. Assuming no other issues, you should then have a good pedal.

As to your second question, see the others responses.

Good luck

Is it the ine with the valve at the end of the tubing? I found mine started letting air back in after several uses.