ive just done the HG on mine a few weeks ago, it now has that misterious miss fire, starts and idles perfectly, takes the revs when stationary, drives ok until it starts to warm up then the miss gets worse when moving of and pulling up through the gears, really bad if im in to high a gear, eg 4th instead of 3rd, it never done this before i replaced the head gasket. i dont have all the technical gadgets to test stuff. it isnt using water or oil.
 
johndog666 said:
ive just done the HG on mine a few weeks ago, it now has that misterious miss fire, starts and idles perfectly, takes the revs when stationary, drives ok until it starts to warm up then the miss gets worse when moving of and pulling up through the gears, really bad if im in to high a gear, eg 4th instead of 3rd, it never done this before i replaced the head gasket. i dont have all the technical gadgets to test stuff. it isnt using water or oil.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a fault with plugs or leads.
 
johndog666 said:
ive just done the HG on mine a few weeks ago, it now has that misterious miss fire, starts and idles perfectly, takes the revs when stationary, drives ok until it starts to warm up then the miss gets worse when moving of and pulling up through the gears, really bad if im in to high a gear, eg 4th instead of 3rd, it never done this before i replaced the head gasket. i dont have all the technical gadgets to test stuff. it isnt using water or oil.
Click to expand...

Take the distributor cap off and then hold the coil lead to the centre of the rotor arm whilst someone cranks it ... Hold the ht lead with a pair of insulated pliers though because they do bite sometimes.

This is a good way of testing the insulation of the rotor arm as they are well known for shorting through the centre, I carry one on my works van as I have fitted a fair few over the past few years

If you get no spark then you know rotor arm is good. Just hold the end of the ht lead a few mm away from the rotor centre, if you gets spark then bin the rotor arm
 
HLRSeagull said:
Take the distributor cap off and then hold the coil lead to the centre of the rotor arm whilst someone cranks it ... Hold the ht lead with a pair of insulated pliers though because they do bite sometimes.

This is a good way of testing the insulation of the rotor arm as they are well known for shorting through the centre, I carry one on my works van as I have fitted a fair few over the past few years

If you get no spark then you know rotor arm is good. Just hold the end of the ht lead a few mm away from the rotor centre, if you gets spark then bin the rotor arm
Click to expand...

The k series does not have a distributor. The plugs connect directly to the ignition pack that is controlled by the ecu:doh:
 
martin1512 said:
The k series does not have a distributor. The plugs connect directly to the ignition pack that is controlled by the ecu:doh:
Click to expand...

Maybe I need to take a bit more notice of the ops symptoms ..... Facepalm

The misfire cylinder 2 was a dead give away his engine doesn't have a distributor cap and I missed it .... Doh
 
No mate some of the freelanders definitely have a dizzy cap.

I know that from spending half hour looking for a rotor arm bolt once on one ...

Got the rotor arm off quick in the rain and then damn bolt slipped out my fingers took me half hour to find the damn thing
 
Yea mine has a dizzy cap, I cleaned the build up of carbon from the contacts when I had the head stripped. Would this missfire get worse as the engine gets warmer. It idles perfectly warm or cold.
 
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