bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
This has been an on going issue for around a year now.

ABS/TC light on, started intermittent and could be reset. However now its constant

Nancom states front right sensor intermittent.

Changed the sensor with a Britpart G sensor. (Changed the sensor 6 / 7 times before now)

Resolved the issue for about 6 months

Lights back on :mad:

So changed the shuttle switch today for a Wabco unit, (only took 5 hours :shock:) also added the wires for the wiring mod should it be required. Just not 100% whch wire to tap into. D2 is yellow/green not present on the Defender, apparently it could be pin 9 black/red?

Cleared the codes, test drive. All ok for a couple miles then the lights come back on!! :mad: At least it is now intermittent again not constant!

Also one very concerning thing is when braking lightly the TC will kick in and try and pull me right.

Next step is the change the CV Joint. After that im at a loss, any suggestions?

Driving me bloody mental
 
Hi. as long as the fault code is about the sensor the problem is on that input, i dont know how the setup is on defender but it can be a play in the reluctor ring caused by a wear in something on that side(bearing, cv joint or where the reluctor ring is as on the D2 this fault is caused by worn wheel hub which contains the ring too)
bankz5152 said:
Also one very concerning thing is when braking lightly the TC will kick in and try and pull me right.
Click to expand...
The TC can't kick in while braking cos it works only when throttle is applied, only the ABS would react while braking, if you fitted cheap aftermatket sensor there can be a missballance between inputs with the original wabco ones
bankz5152 said:
D2 is yellow/green not present on the Defender, apparently it could be pin 9 black/red?
Click to expand...
actually is red/black and you have to cut it and join the side which goes toward the ECU and let the modulator side free
 
Hi. as long as the fault code is about the sensor the problem is on that input, i dont know how the setup is on defender but it can be a play in the reluctor ring caused by a wear in something on that side(bearing, cv joint or where the reluctor ring is as on the D2 this fault is caused by worn wheel hub which contains the ring too)

Wheel bearings where replaced less than 10k ago, with Timken. Zero play and spin freely. However the CV was secomd hand LR, i will be changing that for a Britpart one soon. I dont want HD CVs/Shafts

The TC can't kick in while braking cos it works only when throttle is applied, only the ABS would react while braking, if you fitted cheap aftermatket sensor there can be a missballance between inputs with the original wabco ones.

Yeah, though the TC light comes on and you can feel the feedback in the pedal along with the modulator buzzing. Resulting in the car pulling right underlight braking. However this is totally random, i cant replicate it myself.

actually is red/black and you have to cut it and join the side which goes toward the ECU and let the modulator side free.

So splice into the red and black on the multiplug on the modulator?

I was thinking if it could be an issue with the airgap between the sensor and the CV. As when i cleaned and refit the sensor the fault.was cleared for a short time.[/QUOTE]
 
Sorry but i dont get your dillema :confused: . cut the red/black wire which goes into pin 9 of the modulator's connector where ever you want and join the side which goes toward the ECU, or unpin it from the connector and join it so... important is that the wire to be cut not spliced into it to not let the modulator in parallel with the wiring mod, imagine that the YG wire is red/black cos the principle is the same like here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ring-mod-option-b-graphic-explanation.272156/
 
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Ooooohhh I see. Sorry i misread.

So cut the red/black wire.
Then join to the wire coming off the shuttle switch, leaving it disconnected from the modulator.
Now running direct to the ecu.
 
I had a similar issue with the abs and the shuttle valve, new valve and put the extra wires in, did nothing as the cables in the abs unit were damaged. I dropped the valve back out and snipped them in there, prlerfect for over a year now
 
Thank you!

Incase it was an airgap issue, I changed the kingpin for a brand new one with a new copper cage.

The sensor seats much better now, actually takes some effort to fit it so shouldnt pop out. Short drive home all good so far, will know for sure when i drive to work tomorrow.

If not ill redo the switch mod wiring snd go from there.
 
So changed the kingpin, fit a brand new copper cage, sensor seated much better and didnt move.

Lights stayed off for 35miles and returned with the same fault, however now much better. Resets itself on start up and stays off for a while.

Where next?
 
What's the exact fault code? is it about air gap or input or what? First of all unplug the front RH sensor and read the fault that way, it must be open circuit, also read live stationary inputs with sensor unplugged cos there are cases when nanocom reports a code for the wrong side but live reading for other. I've seen this not once that the code was for one side while the live open circuit with sensor unplugged was different and that was the correct one. If all the data points to the front RH sensor swap the RH/LH sensors and if the fault is the same the only way to make sure it's not a wiring issue is to unpin the inputs at the ECU and swap RH with LH wires there, if you feel up to that i'll tell you which ones. A good move would be to give some contact spray into the sensor's and ECU's plugs, pins 4-5 are front RH(green) and 1-2 front LH(white) inputs,
C0505 Defender ABS.jpg
 
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Amazing help SF. Thank you.

Ill check.

Code is always the same

Right hand sensor intermittent 16 times
 
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Not had much time to check anything.

But i did swap.the RH sensor for an old Wabco one I found in the garage.

Success! Until I hit a pothole, speedbump or any kind of bump on the right side.

Reset it and its perfect on the motorway where the road is smooth.

Any suggestions where to look given the info?

Could it be some damaged wiring thats shorting when I hit a bump? Or is it something more hardware related?

Zero play in the wheelbearings.
 
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