Actually, now I've been driving around a lot in it recently ~ London - Peterboro, Glasgee, Berwick on Tweed, Tweedmouth, London: got up to 25mpg ~ and local trips I do like driving it. Haven't tried the transfer box across rough terrain yet though.

Welp, it had to have the last laugh. Still the occasional Bong! of Gloom and "Check Coolant level" coming up on the dash. No matter how well I'd pressed up the cooling system. Examination showed leeching and drip down from the coolant expansion tank cap surround. Eventually bought new OEM. At a very reasonable £27.85 collected.
And still the coolant was collecting around the expansion cap's rim. Hunh?
Took a magnifier to the top expecting a hair fracture in the tank somewheres and found it was leeching from the tank's pressure screw and then running down and around the cap's surround. Duh! Bought new at a very reasonable £3.85 and suddenly, no leech, all dry there.
Pressed up again and still no leech. It's been like that for a month now of long distance and local driving ~ some 1,600 miles as above...
Next stop, back to the engine builders for oil & filter change and examine the ticking from top somewheres that gets louder when fully warmed up
Just thought I'd better update...
 
So, after about 2,000 miles (Glasgee and back, etc) the Bong! of Gloom again.

This time it was again heater valley connection adapter that was leeching.
Me and mechanic could see that it was a very slight leech that showed as a red line dribbling down the drivers' side of the block past the block's copper expansion bung.
This is the second time that connector has failed. But it fails in an overheat situation -- just under the Jubilee Clip. Having changed one before I'd had the engine out and re-built, when it'd overheated again -- but as one of its periodic 350 mile coolant dumps -- it'd obviously fractured then, but then not shown any or very little leeching.

Have now re-connected the LPG and that's working now OK too

Valley-connector-blown.jpg

Right underneath the Jubilee clip <grrrr!>

Valley-connector.jpg

RJHC000081 at a very reasonable £10.46 inc.
("they do go y'know!" Beadles spare parts person)
 
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Henry_b said:
Fair play to ya falla.
I'd or torched the POS by now...
Or bought one with the Jag mota ;)
Click to expand...

As the mechanic said, his customers with any BMW M62-engined car are recommended to have an oil change every 8,000 miles. And, from my experience with all the furring up, breakdown of head gasket allowing exhaust gasses back into the coolant jacket, and the pressure effects of same on hoses, a coolant change with back flush.
My heater (after a clunk and Shussssh!) is chucking out heat now. Although the cabin thermostats have yet to settle down. They've probably not been worked for years...

I promised to mention the name of the engine re-builders. And given that I feel I've been looked after, they are:
Prestige Engines Ltd
www.prestige-german-engines.co.uk.htm

Not cheeep. But not outrageously expensive either
 
After months of faultless driving (from a L322? Yes, really!) had the flat battery syndrome twice. Seemed it was the headlight wipers not returning to datum. But in jump-starting flattened new battery seem to have lost the full remote unlock sequence on all doors that was working OK before.
Have changed FOB battery (3.25V on DVM new CR2016 cell brighter LED, old cell showing just 3V)
And have done a key sequence (insert key and turn to position 1, return to 0, remove key, keep unlock pressed and press lock three times within 15 secs)
That seemed to bring up IGN faster with clicks from IMMO more immediate.
But FOB still won't remote unlock.
Key blade only unlocks drivers' door, then alarm beeps sound until key is inserted and turned to IGN.
Locks are working as turning the key blade in the driver's door lock to lock causes all the lock solenoids to operate (but the locks are already in the lock position so you just hear the solenoids "clunk" Turning to unlock just unlocks drivers' door manually without any solenoid operation.
Have tried disconnecting battery, leaving overnight, then re-connecting but still the same
Once connected and beeps stopped, car starts fine. But have noticed tickover is much lower than usual -- not much more than 300 - 400rpm. Driving is OK and charge rate is good (24 miles-ish motorway brings battery back to full charge)

Is there a procedure for syncing key FOB to door locks?
Or is the procedure I did for IGN one and the same?

<later> Should add that none of the internal handles on the doors that stay locked (pax, both rears) unlock. Only driver's internal handle works.
And there was a light on the autolock/unlock button (drivers' door) that was on when all working correctly. But now there's no light when IGN on.

I've got iCarsoft 530 but no faults are shown on IMMOBOLISER or SECURITY sections of OBDii diagnostic
 
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Have you tried the touching the battery leads together when the battery is disconnected as that seams to completely power things down.
 
brianp38dse said:
Have you tried the touching the battery leads together when the battery is disconnected as that seams to completely power things down.
Click to expand...

Hi Brian... Yes, have also left the battery disconnected for two to three nights. Re-connecting doesn't cause the alarm to go off. But manually entering the car using the blade to unlock then when key is inserted into IGN alarm stops. Engine can then be started. Then drives OK except the other three doors are still locked and won't unlock from the inside levers either ("superlocked").
My last attempt at least caused the light on the driver's door button armrest to come back on (autolock doors when driven)

But am having to disconnect battery to stop alarm from sounding when manually locking drivers' door. Incidentally, when I do that the locks on all the other three doors sound a solenoid clunk but as they're already in the lock position don't do anything. Pressing unlock on the FOB does nothing, pressing lock on the FOB does nothing either. Neither once or two button presses.

<later> Yes, it's definately a key FOB to locks' issue. I've now managed to close the tailgate properly thus not leaving the boot area light's lit. (one reason why I was disconnecting battery with one of those switches mounted on the negative pole) "It'll all have to be stripped down to find the faulty parts, sir!" Yeah right, heavy use of WD40 on all the catches, and allowing both lower and upper tailgates to drain of water drips helped!

So after leaving the key in the IGN switch at position II found that with a double pull of the interior door handles, they opened. Some progress... They all lock with a rearwards (anti-clockwise) turn of the key blade in the drivers' door lock. But only the drivers' door unlocks with either a single or double twist of the key blade in the drivers' door lock forwards (clockwise) Still no action at all with the key FOB buttons -- LED lights but that's it. The interior lock button (below hazard indicator switch) locks and unlocks but only of course with key in IGN

Have tried the simple key FOB to lock's matching (Wammers' method):
"Try putting key in door with door unlocked. Press lock button and turn to lock position (rearwards or anti-clockwise), return to upright and let go of button.
Press unlock button and turn to unlock position (forwards or clockwise) return to upright release button. Remove key and press fob to lock. See what you get. No eff change for me:confused:
 
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I once removed the O/S/R door threshold plate on my SUPERCHARGED and with my fear of drowning I put it back on sharpish and sold it pronto.

That poor loom.:(
 
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