Hello! .... today I bought my first ever Land Rover! ... a 2001 Freelander TD4 3 door ... for £300!!!

Am I mad?

It needs a few things to get it back on the road. Mechanically, seems like only a front coil spring & missing its propshaft. It drives very well I think (my opinion based on having never driven any form of Land Rover before). The clutch is great, it brakes in a straight line, gearbox is mint, starts right up, idles and pulls lovely. So far so good.

Inside everything except the roof light works exactly as it should. Underneath also seems pretty damn good. I will definitely lanoguard it but really just small areas of surface rust, no rot on the sills / subframe, no seams delaminating. Yet to get the wheels off and have a proper look but the suspension all seems good. A comfortable ride and no creaks or knocks. Just that coil spring once in a while.

It's got a few other issues though / questions for anyone here!

1) Rear Tailgate won't open.

I watched a couple of YouTube videos on this and had a quick look. The springs inside the handle mechanism were missing / broken and the microswitch itself had no obvious '2 state feel' to it. I've tried bypassing that switch it by joining the black wires and flashing the blue one across them. Totally dead. I'm just wondering about the solenoid / lock actuator.

What goes wrong with that? Are they fixable or do you just buy a replacement unit?

Apparently I've got a ball ache job removing the interior panel to get to it ... right? Anyone got any hot tips for that?

2) Rear light cluster.

If I indicate with the brake pedal depressed the brake lights also flash! I'm guessing some sort of earth problem. Is there a common fault here / does anyone have experience of that specific problem?

I'm hoping that's all that's needed for an MOT but I will do a full service before that.

3) I've got spring compressors and I'm handy with a spanner but i've never used them before. Not gonna lie, they terrify me lol ... anyone got a good guide for this job? It's front off side coil spring that needs changing although I'll be doing both.

4) I got told Britpart was my go to resource for all Land Rover bits. Is that right or does anyone have any other recomendations?

Cheers for any / all responses

John

Welcome.

Never heard of needing to "escape" out of the boot, there's no internal release handle for starters. As for checking seals, mine have never been checked in loads of MOTs. Some MOT testers don't even open the boot unless to check the seat belts.

The tail door switch is common, but the lock solenoid isn't. The window will drop about 20mm before the lock releases, so if the window isn't dropping, the CCU (Central Control Unit) isn't seeing the door switch contacts close, so the rear door won't release. If the window is working, it does point to the switch, so joining both wires at the switch will trigger the lock to release.
I'm not 100% sure, but a failed interior light fuse might also be linked to the door switch, as it's live all the time. That's just a guess though, as I don't have the wiring diagram to hand.

I'd download RAVE which is LR's service manual (available on this forum somewhere), it's miles better than the Haynes printed toilet paper.

The tail light issue is likely a bad earth, which isn't unknown.

Unless you've done springs before, I'd get them done by a professional. Things can easily go wrong, leaving you with a serious injury, or damage to property.

I could do with this rave manual but cant find it anywhere even with the search bar thingy

Link is at the top of this forum under the words technical archive.

Hi,

The previous howner failled to the MOT and sells it at breaker price !

The MOT guy saw the MOT history, and gave you the car back.

Can be fixed, but can cost more than a car in better condition. Remember it’s a 20 year old car, some parts are hard to get when you need to replace them.

Don’t trust the clutch, It can fail without notice.

For the springs, can be dangerous, you need the right equipment. Don’t use simple spring compressor, there is a lot a video on the web about them.

andyfreelandy said:

Link is at the top of this forum under the words technical archive.

Click to expand...

Ha found it but won't let me download

Alteredtech said:

Hi,

The previous howner failled to the MOT and sells it at breaker price !

The MOT guy saw the MOT history, and gave you the car back.

Can be fixed, but can cost more than a car in better condition. Remember it’s a 20 year old car, some parts are hard to get when you need to replace them.

Don’t trust the clutch, It can fail without notice.

For the springs, can be dangerous, you need the right equipment. Don’t use simple spring compressor, there is a lot a video on the web about them.

Click to expand...

You might well be right but I don't think so. It was a 'surplus to requirements' vehicle for a recently retired couple, just got parked up and everything expired. But you're kinda missing the point ... I was looking for a cheap fun project.

So there's nothing in the UK I've found in the last two months that isn't at least twice the price of this, still without an MOT and generally with alot more issues. Right now it seems like around £1000 will buy me an MOT'd example of one this age and mileage but that's bottom end, the cheapest ones.

Sure, I could worry about the clutch failing without warning on this one, but I wouldnt have any more confidence in one at £1000.

So I have about £700 to make this one better than the cheapest ones out there with an MOT. I reckon I can do it better than that. It's fun for me, that's my little challenge to myself ... and on route I get to learn the car, trust the car, have the satisfaction of fixing the car and ultimately own a car that I know how to maintain and appreciate. I wasn't looking for one that was sorted.

I take your warning about the spring seriously though, I've seen the hospital pictures! Maybe the budget will stretch to it. What's the labour on 2 front coil springs do you reckon?

FirebladeGuy said:

You might well be right but I don't think so. It was a 'surplus to requirements' vehicle for a recently retired couple, just got parked up and everything expired. But you're kinda missing the point ... I was looking for a cheap fun project.

So there's nothing in the UK I've found in the last two months that isn't at least twice the price of this, still without an MOT and generally with alot more issues. Right now it seems like around £1000 will buy me an MOT'd example of one this age and mileage but that's bottom end, the cheapest ones.

Sure, I could worry about the clutch failing without warning on this one, but I wouldnt have any more confidence in one at £1000.

So I have about £700 to make this one better than the cheapest ones out there with an MOT. I reckon I can do it better than that. It's fun for me, that's my little challenge to myself ... and on route I get to learn the car, trust the car, have the satisfaction of fixing the car and ultimately own a car that I know how to maintain and appreciate. I wasn't looking for one that was sorted.

I take your warning about the spring seriously though, I've seen the hospital pictures! Maybe the budget will stretch to it. What's the labour on 2 front coil springs do you reckon?

Click to expand...

Welcome FirebladeGuy
I'm sure there are plenty of decent complete front suspension units for sale at car breakers/ online selling sites , easy to change full unit than messing about just changing coil springs

Hi,

For the rust, check the front wishbones, the tank cradle and the silencer exhaust, they can be eaten by rust.
I am still trying to save the tank cradle, by removing rust and putting rust-oil, but I will certainty need to replace it.
I had the change the silencer and the wishbones on my car because of rust.

Front and rear sub-frame can rust, also pay attention to look for rust where the towbar should be fitted.

I will not put black paint, before removing all the rust, or I put some transparent rust-oil, so the rust is visible.

The Rave manual links are in the Technical Archive section...


Freelander 1s are probably at the end of the era of fun projects - unless you want to get into complex electronics as part of your restoration.

They are great cars to work on. The larger Landies are much more 'industrial' scale - everything is heavier and more difficult to budge.

Although its been said that parts are becoming harder to get, most are still readily available and cheap.

There have been a number of threads on here about reinstating prop shafts. TBH, there are a number of reasons why they have been removed that can wipe out your £700 budget to fix.

GrumpyGel said:

There have been a number of threads on here about reinstating prop shafts. TBH, there are a number of reasons why they have been removed that can wipe out your £700 budget to fix.

Click to expand...

The prop shaft was removed I missed that part.
So an IRD , a propshaft, and a refurbished VCU is needed.

damian46 said:

Welcome FirebladeGuy
I'm sure there are plenty of decent complete front suspension units for sale at car breakers/ online selling sites , easy to change full unit than messing about just changing coil springs

Click to expand...

Thanks, that's really a helpful reply, sounds like the smarter move.

Britpart are often called sh1tpart. They're not manufacturers, just importers of far Eastern made parts. Some parts are ok, some are far from OK. You pays your money and takes your chance with their parts. I've found rubber components fail particularly quickly, which includes ball joint boots and bushes. However other more specialist parts like subframes seem to be OK, at least out of the box.

GrumpyGel said:

The Rave manual links are in the Technical Archive section...

Rave disk maintenance manual

I'm putting this ere so I can link to it. If you can see adverts on this page selling car repair manuals, DONT click on them. They're sneaky adverts from google which detect words used in this fred, on the chance you will be attracted to click on said advert. The adverts are trying to get you...

www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelander 1s are probably at the end of the era of fun projects - unless you want to get into complex electronics as part of your restoration.

They are great cars to work on. The larger Landies are much more 'industrial' scale - everything is heavier and more difficult to budge.

Although its been said that parts are becoming harder to get, most are still readily available and cheap.

There have been a number of threads on here about reinstating prop shafts. TBH, there are a number of reasons why they have been removed that can wipe out your £700 budget to fix.

Click to expand...

Cheers, I appreciate your positive comment! ... exactly my thinking. As for the prop, it's not a priority for now. I want to get it back on the road first and then we'll see what happens.

If you want to do the springs yourself, get decent double-hook compressors like the picture below. I prefer to take the complete assembly off the car by undoing the top mounts & the two bolts on the hub.

Do NOT undo the central shock nut until the compressors are securely in place.




I have a set like this, which clamps onto the coils, so cannot slip off. Much safer.

pwood999 said:

If you want to do the springs yourself, get decent double-hook compressors like the picture below. I prefer to take the complete assembly off the car by undoing the top mounts & the two bolts on the hub.

Do NOT undo the central shock nut until the compressors are securely in place.

View attachment 313023


I have a set like this, which clamps onto the coils, so cannot slip off. Much safer.


View attachment 313024

Click to expand...

Thanks, thats what I like. 'Can do' positive and helpful suggestions.

FirebladeGuy said:

Thanks, thats what I like. 'Can do' positive and helpful suggestions.

Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with a can do attitude, as long as you know when it's something someone more experienced can do for you.
However as long as you are aware of the dangers and how to avoid them, then springs are safe to do, as long as you have the correct equipment of course.

Thanks Nodge. Yeah budget is tight and I'm fairly handy with a spanner so really want to do everything myself unless absolutely essential. Reading previous comments seems like replacing the whole unit might be the way forward. I've found a few second hand ones already at reasonable prices. I mean, id rather have new springs if I'm honest so dunno. Obviously got a few other things to fix so I'll probably leave that job until last. Worst case, my MOT guy runs a garage so I could book it in for MOT and get him to do that job before the ticket. Anyway, appreciate all the advice, half way through fixing the tailgate at the moment. I was lucky ... those 4 difficult to get at bottom screws had already been removed, the inner panel came off in 30 seconds. Fingers crossed everything else goes that smoothly.

I really do think its not a bad car and I spent 2 months and looked at few others before buying it. Obviously I was trying to find a bargain and not a dog. Remains to be seen how I did but underneath is unbelievably good, all of the known areas i've read about are brilliant and its drives so well, i was really surprised. I shouldn't tempt fate of course but gotta be positive! Hoping to get it MOT'd without spending very much at all. If I can do that for a couple of hundred notes then I still have some cash to worry about the stuff id 'like' to do to it. Like reinstate the 4wd etc but honestly, my plan was only to consider doing that job when it's time for tyres, so I'd do all 4 at the same time for peace of mind.

Watch this space!

It definitely sounds like a bargain.

Good call with the tyres and reinstating 4WD.

Mines been 2WD for over 10 years now. I definitely miss having the 4WD - but obviously not that much. Its been a cracking motor for what we use it for.

It looks like this isn't the first problem with the back door if the screws are not in place. That sound like experience from previous pain!

GrumpyGel said:

The Rave manual links are in the Technical Archive section...

Rave disk maintenance manual

I'm putting this ere so I can link to it. If you can see adverts on this page selling car repair manuals, DONT click on them. They're sneaky adverts from google which detect words used in this fred, on the chance you will be attracted to click on said advert. The adverts are trying to get you...

www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelander 1s are probably at the end of the era of fun projects - unless you want to get into complex electronics as part of your restoration.

They are great cars to work on. The larger Landies are much more 'industrial' scale - everything is heavier and more difficult to budge.

Although its been said that parts are becoming harder to get, most are still readily available and cheap.

There have been a number of threads on here about reinstating prop shafts. TBH, there are a number of reasons why they have been removed that can wipe out your £700 budget to fix.

Click to expand...

Have downloaded but won't open do I need to do this on a laptop as there is nothing happening on phone I'm not up on this technical life