FEI
Active Member
For thick sand/dune driving.
Are you trying to get the Cv shaft head out of the hub?sorry I've not followed precisely
If i had kids
Yes.. I've tighten the puller with my 3/4" driveAre you trying to get the Cv shaft head out of the hub?sorry I've not followed precisely
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I thought you would have a tightened puller on it when you hammered it? Try heating it then tap all around, then see if the puller will creep bit more. I’m staring to think they’ve bonded it on with something
Load up the puller and tap the end of the push pin that contacts the Cv thread. Worst case is that you pull the bearing support and remove the Cv joint head and get it in a press. You may have to sacrifice the Cv joint to remove if it's seized
The cv is dead that's why I'm trying to get it outLoad up the puller and tap the end of the push pin that contacts the Cv thread. Worst case is that you pull the bearing support and remove the Cv joint head and get it in a press. You may have to sacrifice the Cv joint to remove if it's seized
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
It's a bit of a bugger in that when you need momentum to get through the thick stuff it keeps sticking the brakes on and dragging you back in.
That central viscous coupling is a bit of a sod too. With a diff lock you feather the throttle and ease your way out. With the viscous coupling you have to lock the sod up first which means a Clarkson-like pedal-to-the-metal and scream the livin'-bejeezus out of it and it hopefully drags itself clear. Totally different driving style from manually locked stuff.
Dunno how more modern stuff works. Probably just point and push the throttle and the computer does the rest.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Condenser. Pump itself. Thermostatic expansion valve not gummed up.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
Might have to get it into a 20 ton press or use a grinder on it
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
That was a super slippery hill. You can see in the terribly fimled decent video theres abit of a bump in the road and as my front wheels drop off they lose traction and from then on the ABS just decided no more brakes. I basically just plowed into a tree
I dought dee 'ad been at cider!
P38Seb
Well-Known Member
Well I’ve tried to regas it a few times and always ends up empty 2-4 weeks later.
I’ve got a VERY early 2001 car so I’m hoping if it is the condenser I can use the cheaper version if it is still that.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
My disco has DSC on it and when your in soft sand it will just dig itself in same with thick mud so the first thing i do in either situatin is turn off the DSC . I learn that the hard way the first time i was in soft sand it dug itself into the chasis reasting on the sand the only way out was using a snatch strap and a toyoto with airlockers on it . on the way back i disabled the DSC and went straight through
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
That might be thermostatic expansion valve. It prevents a full regas and when you run it it vents to atmosphere losing gas. Takes a month or two to get low enough to notice.
Cost about £27 from an air con place 10 years or so ago. It is on the bulkhead. Probably costs £50 now the robbing so and sos.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Good luck with the Nitrogen, it did not find the condensor leak on mine, nor did the vac test.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Measure the height of yours, early ones are longer, I've fitted an early one to mine which had the later nla originally. I can then go measure mine to confirm what you have.
Not sure if it's possible to measure the overall height with it fitted but I've got to fiddle under the bonnet later so I'll have a try, otherwise, I'm sure a look underneath will give a tell tale as the early one sits lower.
