[Grrrrrr]

When I did mine I did the chamfer about 5-6mm. Next I do some, I plan to buy one of those taper bearing races (unless someone nearby has the LR tool).

I think @brianp38dse has the tool and isn't far from you.

 

[brianp38dse]

Yes i have the proper tool, makes it a lot easier, its quite a weighty lump.

 

[Flossie]

And grease the hole and bush sides

Durty perv.

 

[Mark Piercy]

Durty perv.

You know you luv it

 

[Rubberknees]

You know you luv it

Says he with a big smile on his face

 

[Frank_38]

Hello everyone,

The pressing in of the bushes worked - with a lot of patience and preparatory work - sanding the plastic is the most important thing.
Now I'm assembling it.
I was able to insert the first screw by hand. Fits perfectly!
The 2nd bolt is misaligned - is this because I removed the wheel? Does the wheel have to be put back on and the car has to stand on the tyres? So that it balances out?
It fits perfectly on the inside. The only thing that surprises me is that the old rubber seal was significantly shorter. I can get the nut on, but then what? Tighten it with 160NW? Does the seal come apart?

Thanks!!

 

[Mark Piercy]

Hello everyone,

The pressing in of the bushes worked - with a lot of patience and preparatory work - sanding the plastic is the most important thing.
Now I'm assembling it.
I was able to insert the first screw by hand. Fits perfectly!
The 2nd bolt is misaligned - is this because I removed the wheel? Does the wheel have to be put back on and the car has to stand on the tyres? So that it balances out?
It fits perfectly on the inside. The only thing that surprises me is that the old rubber seal was significantly shorter. I can get the nut on, but then what? Tighten it with 160NW? Does the seal come apart?

Thanks!!

get a bar in the slot underneath and lever it a bit

 

[Mark Piercy]

The big nut on the end of the arm that traps the two bushes will only go so far on the thread and then 160nm to seal the deal

 

[Frank_38]

ok, here's a photo of the old one. Hence the uncertainty.
So just leave the new one as it is and tighten the nut, right?
or would you prefer the old one?

Thanks!

 

[Mark Piercy]

ok, here's a photo of the old one. Hence the uncertainty.
So just leave the new one as it is and tighten the nut, right?
or would you prefer the old one?

Thanks!

That's because they were shrunken with age and holding very little. You'll notice a difference in how it handles now

 

[Datatek]

That's because they were shrunken with age and holding very little. You'll notice a difference in how it handles now

shrunken with age? sounds a bit like me LOL.

 

[Frank_38]

The design and structure of the new (blue print) is completely different. Should I now take the ones from blue print and tighten everything by force? wait, I'll take a photo...

 

[Frank_38]

looks different compared to the old ones.
Tighten them anyway?

 

[Frank_38]

...and I have another problem. I can't get the 2nd screw in. The pictures show the current state. In the meantime I lifted the car very high and one side was perfectly aligned but there was still an offset on the back (see red mark). I am a little perplexed. I was able to push the front screw in with my hand with absolute ease.

Will it help if I mount the tyre again?

 

[Mark Piercy]

The back screws go in first and then put a bar in heave the first screw hole into place or the other way if it suits

 

[Mark Piercy]

looks different compared to the old ones.
Tighten them anyway?

Just tighten the buggers down lad

 

[Frank_38]

I was able to insert the front screw by hand as it was at its maximum height. It was not possible to lift it any higher so that the rear one could be inserted first.

Tomorrow I will lift the car by the axle to the maximum so that I can first insert the bolts from the rear and then lower the jack and hope that it will also level out from the front. Thanks!

These little things drive me crazy, but I'm just inexperienced.

 

[Anaconda]

I was able to insert the front screw by hand as it was at its maximum height. It was not possible to lift it any higher so that the rear one could be inserted first.

Tomorrow I will lift the car by the axle to the maximum so that I can first insert the bolts from the rear and then lower the jack and hope that it will also level out from the front. Thanks!

These little things drive me crazy, but I'm just inexperienced.

Surely the axle needs rotating?

 

[Flossie]

Surely the axle needs rotating?

What he said. Not on a 38 but a 110, I had to jack the nose of the diff up, which rotates it, a bit to get the trailing arms lined up.

 

[pwood999]

Surely the axle needs rotating?

+1 on this. Did you remove both sodes at the same time ? If so, thats why the asle rotated a bit.