RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Hats off (no pun intended) fact it was that bad yet just ran “a bit off”
At the 'end' when that cam (exhaust) was totally gone and not opening at all, it exhausted when the inlet opened instead with a 'backfire'
I know for sure what was going on only because i took it to bits and saw the evidence with my own eyes
Tempus
Member
Well I am surprised, I have to admit. But if that is the issue, then that's the issue. 
From experience then, am I looking at a rough job? Provided that that is what it is.
Do I need to replace all the cams in one go.... general time to do the job... any pit fall's to be aware of?
And is there a way to test without opening anything up ?
From experience then, am I looking at a rough job? Provided that that is what it is.
Do I need to replace all the cams in one go.... general time to do the job... any pit fall's to be aware of?
And is there a way to test without opening anything up ?
It's a single camshaft down the middle of the engine, it's not that card to replace, you don't need to take the heads off but you may as well replace the gears and chain while you're at it.
Not saying 100% that's what it is, but they are a known failure and seem to last 80-120,000 miles give or take depending on how they've been looked after.
If you take the rocker covers off and turn the engine over then you'll be able to see if some valves are opening more than others, or in my case not opening at all.
If they are all opening a bit less than they should then you'll be down on power, not enough air will be getting into the cylinders. Or not so the exhaust gases will be escaping
Not saying 100% that's what it is, but they are a known failure and seem to last 80-120,000 miles give or take depending on how they've been looked after.
If you take the rocker covers off and turn the engine over then you'll be able to see if some valves are opening more than others, or in my case not opening at all.
If they are all opening a bit less than they should then you'll be down on power, not enough air will be getting into the cylinders. Or not so the exhaust gases will be escaping
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
You can disconnect the exhausts at the manifold but protect the airlines as they burn through in about a mile of travel. That would eliminate the cats.
Coil packs usually fail when warm but it could be that causing a weak spark. LPG would feel that more than petrol.
Tempus
Member
If I end up needing to change the cam, I should also change the followers as well. Which will basically be a full strip down.
From what I have seen from looking at a few vid's, it is the same design as my old V6 I had. Few differences I know, but same layout.
Will need to be a summer job as this weather is not going to help.
I will still try all trouble shooting tips you may have to rule out anything else. (such as testing with exhaust's off)
From what I have seen from looking at a few vid's, it is the same design as my old V6 I had. Few differences I know, but same layout.
Will need to be a summer job as this weather is not going to help.
I will still try all trouble shooting tips you may have to rule out anything else. (such as testing with exhaust's off)
Push rod removal just requires rocker covers & rocker removal. Then with inlet manifold off you can access the followers. Just needs a magnet or valve-lap tool to pull them out. To remove camshaft, you need to remove radiator, condenser, water pump & front cover.
Changing followers depends how worn they are. I did not change mine, just the cam.
If you get a dial-gauge, you can check the cam wear by just removing the rocker covers before doing anything else. Then measure the valve lift for each lobe. It should be 9.94mm with standard cam, so you need a dial gauge with this much range. I used a digital dial gauge because my mechanical gauge didn't have enough range !!
Changing followers depends how worn they are. I did not change mine, just the cam.
If you get a dial-gauge, you can check the cam wear by just removing the rocker covers before doing anything else. Then measure the valve lift for each lobe. It should be 9.94mm with standard cam, so you need a dial gauge with this much range. I used a digital dial gauge because my mechanical gauge didn't have enough range !!
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Tempus
Member
Hi there all. It has been a while and have finally started taking things apart. The weather , time and family have been stopping me. But sun is finally out and I have some time.
I took the tappet covers off and removed the plugs. Turned it by hand and eye balled the rockers. Not scientific at all, I know.
They all seemed to be about the same from what I could see with slight variations between them. But on the whole.... they were working. I would say ( without putting a measure in there) that they were all at least moving about 7mm.
So I think it might be back to the old guessing game?? What is the problem? valves look to be working.
Is it back to looking at the torque converter? Does the torque converter and gearbox talk to the engine to "read power" in some way? Possible pressure related thing?
Just throwing stuff out there now as I am stumped. Do not want to strip everything just to find it is something else.
I took the tappet covers off and removed the plugs. Turned it by hand and eye balled the rockers. Not scientific at all, I know.
They all seemed to be about the same from what I could see with slight variations between them. But on the whole.... they were working. I would say ( without putting a measure in there) that they were all at least moving about 7mm.
So I think it might be back to the old guessing game?? What is the problem? valves look to be working.
Is it back to looking at the torque converter? Does the torque converter and gearbox talk to the engine to "read power" in some way? Possible pressure related thing?
Just throwing stuff out there now as I am stumped. Do not want to strip everything just to find it is something else.
How old is the petrol in the tank? 
Tempus
Member
Originally was fresh twice over while testing back when. Not run up for a while and is now in a few bits while digging. Still some in the tank, but at least a year old now.How old is the petrol in the tank?
Hmmm, OK. So you've got to determine whether it's engine performance or vehicle movement in relation to engine performance before ripping into something that may not be the issue
Tempus
Member
Do not have a pressure tester. But will look into getting one. Always handy. But I do not remember noticing any leakage .
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Needs cranking with the starter motor. If the vehicle electronics will not allow the starter motor to operate, careful use of jump leads directly to the motor do the job.
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