Riich

Active Member
While at Paddocks the other day collecting some parts, there was some confusion about my drive flanges/half shafts on the back and I ended up buying 4 front type drive flanges. I went to fit the rears earlier to find I have one peice flange/shafts. Now that I have the extra set of flanges (I changed the fronts too) its not worth taking them back, so can I convert to a seperate shaft thats independant of the flange? I see they have rear shafts listed, but without the right knowledge I don't want to buy the wrong things again.
 
While at Paddocks the other day collecting some parts, there was some confusion about my drive flanges/half shafts on the back and I ended up buying 4 front type drive flanges. I went to fit the rears earlier to find I have one peice flange/shafts. Now that I have the extra set of flanges (I changed the fronts too) its not worth taking them back, so can I convert to a seperate shaft thats independant of the flange? I see they have rear shafts listed, but without the right knowledge I don't want to buy the wrong things again.
one pice shaft and flange is the best ,the flanges are for fronts or 110s
 
How come? My rear shafts (on the 110) where a little worn so I replaced them with the shaft/flange system.

Is the single unit that much better?
once you get to 300tdi the drive members arent lubricated,splines are prone to rust and wear,110 flanges /shafts are commonly worn
 
once you get to 300tdi the drive members arent lubricated,splines are prone to rust and wear,110 flanges /shafts are commonly worn
Agree. The problem has other facets, though. The rust can be fought with some oil in the shaft end cap. When the wear gets too much you can hear the clonk and, in my experience, it's the drive flange that gives up first -by a long way. This makes it easy to carry a spare flange to enable a roadside fix to the loss of drive. I fitted some HD flanges to my last 110 but I'm not sure that this was the right move - it shifts the point of failure somewhere else. Because of that I ended up carrying spare half-shafts on my last long trip in case the flanges did their job too well. I guess there's no Right Answer.
 
Agree. The problem has other facets, though. The rust can be fought with some oil in the shaft end cap. When the wear gets too much you can hear the clonk and, in my experience, it's the drive flange that gives up first -by a long way. This makes it easy to carry a spare flange to enable a roadside fix to the loss of drive. I fitted some HD flanges to my last 110 but I'm not sure that this was the right move - it shifts the point of failure somewhere else. Because of that I ended up carrying spare half-shafts on my last long trip in case the flanges did their job too well. I guess there's no Right Answer.
maxi drive used to supply 2 x rtc3511 hub oil seal with their h/d half shaft kits with which you removed the stub axle oil seal ,to allow oil to run down to the drive member, for most people perhaps over the top as then you run into worrying about hub oil leaks
 

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