sprie's latest activity

The end nearest the wheel. I have seen that I could swap the hose on the rear axle with one of the ones at the front. The one on rear axle has identical, longer threads on the connectors.

I decided to buy a set of ready-made brake pipes for the Landy as that way I know I would have the right size tubing, connectors, good flares etc and they would be the right length. So, I fitted these to the bare chassis, and they looked fine...

Interesting. I will see how the clutch feels and will consider what you suggest.

i have the original mechanical pump. Now that i have started investigating, it has stopped leaking. I am sure it will come back soon!

I will investigate tomorrow. As part of the restoration I did renew the diaphragm and seals on the pump and I know it produces fuel at high pressure as it leaked or of the

I replaced it with a new one

I have been fitting the accelerator linkage from the pedal to the carb, and doing this I pushed the pedal a few times to test (with the engine off). I can see some fuel escaping from the Weber carb. I had seen this previously and had carefully...

This is why I dread making brake & clutch hoses – it’s not the making (which I like), it’s working out what connector sizes…. For background, I bought the 2 metal pipes/1 rubber hose the part book lists to connect the clutch master to the slave...

Yup, lots of jiggling, tweaking and the jobs done - i have got the joint bracket further away from the side of the chassis, and got the pipe raised a bit, so it is away from the rubber gearbox mounts. Thanks for the steer.

I bought myself the 3 pipes/hose (2 metal, 1 rubber) that lead from the clutch master to the clutch slave – I could have had a go at making the metal ones, but part of the reason for the purchase was that the shape would inform me the route the...

I have just attached my gearbox back to the engine, and this has highlighted a couple of issues with the routing of the exhaust. I can get it to sneak past the gearbox mount, but it is a bit close Where the front exhaust section is joined to the...

When I dissembled my old slave cylinder there was no circlip behind the seal. There is no recess in the wall of the cylinder that I have seen on master cylinders for circlips. My cylinder seal kit included the seals and also a (mostly) C-shaped...

sorry, forgot to add the important bit. see below.

I know there is a pin that goes through the end of the lower shaft (in the red box). But I am wondering if there is also a pin that goes through the middle of the spacer and trunnion at the top of the clutch pedal (inside the blue boxes). My...

I changed all the bearings except the reverse one as the race doesn't come out without more work than I was happy to do. My car is series 3 but the inards of the gearbox are series 2 (don't know why) so only synchro only 3 &4. in general the...

As per an earlier thread, i have got the rebuilt engine sitting on the bare chassis and running. Sounds OK. Just in the process of sorting out the cooling system at the moment. My plan is to then stick the rebuilt gearbox on the back of the...

excellent. have done the same and it goes on fine. will test next time i get the engine going (sorting out the cooling system at the moment). thanks

I can’t work out where the bracket should go and/or whether I have the wrong fan belt. I was thinking that the bracket went between the top bracket of the alternator and a bolt fixed to the bolt hole just to the left of that point. But as you...

its 1990 petrol 2.25. The switch i bought was this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254654333353 it has spades with labels 1,2,3,5 (i.e. no number 4). You are right - the issue is power to the coil - but the odd thing is that it DOES have power in...

Just trying to get my newly rebuilt engine running. I found that when i turned the ignition switch to position 3, the starter motor kicks in, engine starts and runs, until i release the key on the switch and it returns to position 2. Initially...

i am trying replace my worn out battery and am not sure what physical size i can get. The easy bit is that it is 175mm wide (that seems pretty standard and should fit) and it could be up to 300mm long - most batteries are either far too long to...

I am fitting the lock wire to the bolts that keep the tappet holders in place. Its a bit fiddly. I can't find anywhere which suggests the best approach. Should i run a piece of wire across all the bolts (which will be really difficult to thread)...

I can turn the engine with the starting handle. If I take the plugs out, the starter can turn , but not once I put the plugs back in. I have now ordered a new starter motor. I will report back once I have installed it.

I don't know if this is the original distributor from when the car was made. The carb has been replaced with a Weber (which I know was a common change). I know that tdc etc is relevant for setting the timing (I have a strobe light to help) but I...

I am having trouble trying to locate the distributor so that the rotor arm turns properly. From what I can tell, I have to: Insert the coupling (549611) and place that correctly with its offset teeth sitting nicely in the driver below. Insert...

I have new cables (1) earth from battery to chassis 2) from battery to solenoid 3) from solenoid to starter. Old solenoid though, but given my test with tractor battery bypassed all this (as i used jump leads direct), i am thinking the starter...

thanks for feedback - i did put oil on everything as i put it all back, including some assembly oil in the depths. I took a fat battery off a tractor i have, fully charged, and tried that with jump leads. It was slightly better, did manage to...

I am inching towards having a go at starting the engine, but not there yet. The engine has been re-bored, honed, new bearings, seals, rebuilt head etc. I have installed it on the chassis, but i have not installed the gearbox yet. I connected up...