Recent content by sierrafery

Then the problem is probably in that latch assy cos there is the microswitch which commands the central locking but if you are 100% sure that the latch is not faulty it might be a wiring issue on the lock microswitch's output line to the BCU or with the BCU, i's not a setting issue. You must...

Hi, you are kind'a mixing thing up here, first of all te ECU has nothing to do with the central locking, only the BCU, which door lock did you replace, the driver's? also if you try to lock the driver's door with the key that one will lock or not? that one^^^ makes no sense to me

I can't see it well in your pic but if it's the one in the middle of the attached pic then it's for EGR too

maybe this is clearer

Hi, it's a gearbox out job in which case you better replace both the crankshaft seal and gearbox input seal... once the box is out it's not so hard

the same part, P comes from "pattern" aka cheaper aftermarket

Yes it was, you have to replace the BCU, this needs programming with nanocom or similar or contact https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133115857675

I'm glad your saga has ended 🙏... though remember next time to not overthink simple things, i'm not a fan of the "i told you so" attitude but now i can't help myself to not remind you my first reply in this thread(and fortunately i insisted) :)...

Was that on with the old fusebox too?

and are they all OK? Forget about that as my mind was set for a D2, for Defender check C0362 to be well connected and continuity to the round light grey plug with one black wire behind the modulator... if all these are OK there is a bad contact on the SVS input to the ECU or ECU fault

I dont know what that plug is for but did you check the switch pack's resistances in all 3 positions before the wiring mod?

Hi, i've just seen this... how did you make the option B? did you cut out the switch pack's plug and prolonged out the wires or you spliced into them with connector left there? Some sch,ucks whodont really understand how this system work posted tutorials on the net with wires spliced into the...

That's the best thing to do cos the ECU is very suspect now

I could have bet they would based on what you said before about slightly unplugged connector while you had good live stationary readings. It's not supoosed to be any live with ignition off at the ABS sensor only 5V on one wire and between 2 - 2.3V on the other with ignition on... though to be...

In general you are spot on except this: the corrections are: 1. if it's a variation in speed signal caused by the gap while it's still within the accepted margin there will be no warning lights just the active braking modes will be mixed up in most cases TC or ABS erratic behaviour 2. once the...