Rangieman123's latest activity

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  • Rangieman123
    The fuel and temp gauges will get their power feed via a small metal box about half the size of a box of matches. This stabiliser reduces the voltage to power the gauges and also helps to buffer and slow the movement of the gauge needles. If you...
  • Rangieman123
    Seeing as you have the correct sender, I'd suggest checking if you have the right voltage stabiliser.
  • Rangieman123
    or you could convert to hydraulic clutch.
  • Rangieman123
    From memory, your 86'' has a solid shaft clutch release mechanism from the pedal. So no hydraulic clutch. You would need to keep your original bellhousing but I don't know for sure if it will correctly fit to a Series 3 gearbox.
  • Rangieman123
    If your throttle position sensor isn't giving the proper voltage signal at closed throttle to the ECU the idle control valve won't be commanded to function as the ECU doesn't know the engine is to maintain idle. Does it idle more smoothly with...
  • Rangieman123
    I have seen some Series before where they have a tie bar between the crossmember and the gearbox. It looked like it limited movement in the mounting rubbers when the hand brake was engaged.
  • Rangieman123
    Rangieman123 replied to the thread Master Clutch Thread size.
    On a side note, if you drill out the hole in the centre of the steel adapter by 2mm it makes the clutch pedal noticeably lighter. Just take care tightening it into the master cylinder. New adapters can be found from Britpart for a few quid.
  • Rangieman123
    Rangieman123 replied to the thread Master Clutch Thread size.
    The smaller thread going in to the M/Cyl is 3/8 UNF (nut hex is 7/16 spanner) The larger thread of the steel adapter is 7/16 UNF (nut hex 1/2 inch spanner).
  • Rangieman123
    The lower oil pump filter bases shared the same bolt holes so you can swap filter housings between Rover V8's. The issue is that the filter will be mounted in different ways usually for clearance to front axle, chassis legs etc.
  • Rangieman123
    The biggest issue with earlier Series models were the seatbelts which had the shoulder strap secured to a fixing behind the top of the front seats. In a head on collision the belt would compress downwards resulting in serious shoulder injuries...
  • Rangieman123
    Rangieman123 replied to the thread Clutch pedal pin(s).
    No pin in blue box. Red box uses a pin in some earlier Series 2 models. If you're disassembling them, you can remove the 7/16 hex bolt and screw in a grease nipple. Makes a difference...
  • Rangieman123
    You seem to be having too many oil leaks. I suggest checking your crankcase breather system. If its not venting vapours/pressure, you'll find oil leaks everywhere...
  • Rangieman123
    Rangieman123 replied to the thread Su carb heat shielding.
    A red top will be fine. The carburettored RRC had them as OE fitment. I'd suggest putting a filter ahead of it so you can easily see if it's dirty. They have an internal filter (behind the hex cap) which cannot be easily monitored.
  • Rangieman123
    Rangieman123 replied to the thread Su carb heat shielding.
    I've had SU's on my V8 Series for decades an I've never had any issues. Certainly nothing heat related. They're off an SD1 and run on a dead head layout, so there's no return back to the tank, just a feed from the pump. I've an electric fuel pump...
  • Rangieman123
    Rangieman123 replied to the thread Ignition amp..
    The ignition amplifier must have an earth, through its two mounting screws. Its relocation is a very good idea but relying on the inner wing of a RRC as an earth can be a gamble due to corrosion. I'd suggest running a wire from the amp and earth...
  • Rangieman123
    I was having a pint recently with a very old friend who has been working on classics for 50 years. He's of the opinion that positive earth vehicles rust faster than negative earthed ones. Any ideas on this??
  • Rangieman123
    There's a very thin wire in the distributor that earths the points baseplate to the distributor body. This can break, resulting is nothing happening. At this stage I suggest establishing if your coil is correctly wired and firing. Step 2 is spark...
  • Rangieman123
    Ill assume that it's unknown if you have a pos or neg earth coil. To isolate the fault I would suggest the following: Put a plug lead into the coil HT connector with a properly earthed spark plug at the other end. Turn the engine by hand until...
  • Rangieman123
    Hello Datatec, Correct the VC is sealed, but in the many RRC and P38's that I've seen, the BW transfer boxes have lasted for more miles in the Classics, which have Dex 2 listed. Again, just my opinion from experience.
  • Rangieman123
    Two last things to check: The BW transfer boxes are know to be very quiet in operation. If the internal chain has stretched it will make noise, and can eventually lead to total loss of drive. Check that the yokes on your front prop are in...
  • Rangieman123
    Also, if you have the original Series 2 front axle it will have universal joints in the swivels, not CV joints like a Defender or RRC. Now being full time 4WD, the UJ's can create a kind of "shimmy" when going around tighter turns due to their...
  • Rangieman123
    If your viscous coupling has seized you'll be chirping tyres when turning on full lock. It don't think it's seized based on your description. Only Dextron 2 for auto box and transfer box in my experience. Dex 3 is too thin and not suitable for...
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