cornishboater's latest activity

Keith is correct the Blend & Distribution motors are all identical. The only difference is what pins they connect to on the HEVAC ECU and the colour ident on the cables !

Right, I am now extremely confused, I have just picked the car up from having the service done, this had nothing at all to do with the HEVAC just oils and brake checks etc. I jump in and drive away, no book fault on the HEVAC and the face vent is...

Thanks, I didn't actually touch the motor on this bit of surgery, I replaced this motor years back. I will check however when I get the back later today. I am wondering if when trying to get the ducting back in I inadvertently dislodged something...

Many thanks and much appreciated, I am just psyching myself up for when the car comes back from the service....... I have found some pics on this site and google but none really show where I may have disconnected something, so basically the...

I am looking a various pictures of the HEVAC trying to see what I may have dislodged, the car is out for a service so I cannot physically see the gubbins

I cheated, someone way back in the past had done the short cut so I have gone in that way again. I actually replaced the distribution motor 4 or 5 years ago when I found it had been chopped.

@DollyBird Assuming the garage rebuilt the valve block correctly, then there are only a few things that can cause issues. 1) as Kieth says, corrosion in the connectors behind left footwell panel. 2) air leaks at valve block, airbags or the...

See post #16.

Many thanks, I am wondering though if I could have dislodged something while re-assembling after doing the Orings, it was working before I stripped everything (or I think it was.....)

I hope you disconnected the battery, air bags are a right royal PIA when they throw you out the tailgate

It's actually really easy, honest. No need to remove the steering wheel, just 4 torq bolts and the airbag is off. Manually flick two tabs with your finger on each switch and that enables you too slide them sideways off the wheel. Then each switch...

If there is corrosion in the white connectors (very common) cutting out, soldering and sleeving with heat shrink tube is the only permanent cure.

Thanks Keith, I was hoping that would be the case

Thanks, I wasn't thinking about that bit, I have tried that and all works as it should and gives correct feedback, the face/lap shows that it is ok but the air still only goes to the feet no matter where you force it to go. I must have dislodged...

Blend and distribution are the same.

I seem to be getting conflicting answers, I bought new Valeo blend/distribution motors quite a while back to replace the distribution motor. The distribution one seems to have gone wrong. I am still trying to find the cause or if it has in fact...

And thanks for the response Keith

The recirc motor failed due to a jammed flap years ago but for some reason is now showing a fault after doing the "O" rings and stripping most of the dash out. Pity about the blend motors not being the same, I still have 2 brand new ones! I will...

If you force the distribution flap with Nanocom, you should see not only the motor movement but the feedback. I don't know why you assume the motor is at fault, if you forced the movement and it did not work, a fault would be flagged. To me it...

Ta for the info, To continue, somats up, I can calibrate as mentioned previously with no issues, however, I have forced the distribution motor to face level but it stays blowing at floor level. Therefore I assume that the motor must be at fault...

Would that not flag a fault on the nano when doing the calibration though?

Hi Keith, I have tried both, the same on either one it just seems to send it all to the bottom vents

The saga continues, book symbol now gone and no faults showing, however, there is hardly any air coming out of the face vents. The distribution motor is working as are the blend motors, I have calibrated and tried them under the Nanocom with no...

i dont think it will work.. on the basis every 200? ignition cycles it does a motor self test.. wind the motor in both directions.. might be a problem if theres no flap to give end travel feedback

Before I take out the glovebox etc how accessible is the connector for the LH recirc motor (RHD car). This is the only fault that the Nanocom is showing. I have a good spare motor and was thinking of plugging it in and just zip tie it to...

And back together.

That's what my old girl looks like today, however, it is for the "O" rings. All done now, what a ball ache of a job!!!!

I doesn't pull dry air in, it drys the air when it is operating, it only blows cold when asked to (sometimes you have to plead with it) the temp will be at whatever you set the control to. You will sometimes find the moisture it squeezes out...

That would be Paul Bennet that did the decals

Try Craddocks, that's where I got mine, ain't cheap though, James Coleman on the P38 Facebook group may have a good used one ALR8602 or ALR8603 for the rear doors