Saw this, is the surface rust an issue?

Should I replace the CSC adaptor and control valve as well? Also, on enquiring with a couple of garages, they seem to suggest there's a clutch shortage at the moment??? Backed up by clickmechanic.com, wanted to get a base price for clutch job for comparison, they would quote for clutch & C...

Looking at LRWorkshop.com diagram seems to give 2 alternatives LR033026 BA chassis numbers to 2011, which covers my 2008 Landy, but also has LR077797 CA chassis (2.2 & 2.4tdci Puma). Question is, does the later one fit mine and is a better upgrade or do I stick with earlier one, which is cheaper?

The Landy’s at 156K, got it +8yrs ago at 134k from a wildlife trust organisation and it had been serviced at their local garage. Unfortunately garage had closed and couldn’t get any info on servicing, apart from a stamped book up to the 130k.

So, managed to change Master Cylinde and get clutch pedal back In place. Ready to bleed clutch system, the bleed nipple didn’t have cover protector, not an issue, but how the chuff do you turn the bleed valve, just no space. After lots of different failed Attempts, invested in some stubby...

Spooky, just edited my reply to @dag019 at same time. Thanks for confirmation. Fingers crossed master cylinder change works, bits on order from Island4x4.

Thanks for response and info. The Master Cylinder is same(£15 ish), but my understanding is the Slave Cylinder is in bell housing on tdci so would almost certainly mean gearbox out to change. Is it vital to change both master and slave, appreciate the new master would then put extra pressure on...

Thanks Thanks for info, have trawled this and other sites, but will give it another search.👍

No replies at all? Usually there would at least suggestions of best parts to buy or to tell me I've misdiagnosed the problem? Come on Landyzone members, don't leave me wondering what I've done wrong to you all.:vb-wavey:

Hi All, I have a Defender 2.4tdci(2008) and heading out yesterday went to engage gear the clutch pedal stayed down. Managed to lift it up with end of foot and it then worked as normal. Same thing happened on way home, but this time lifting pedal with foot had no effect, checked fluid reservoi...

Thanks for all responses and constructive input. Checked all, but all seems ok. As I've checked all possible solutions suggested above and the lack of any heat from diff, brake discs, hubs, etc. will continue to monitor and continue on my "Merry Landy Way!" Thanks again fellow Landy Fettlers.

Thanks Mik for response. Oil safely in axle/wheel bearing, only knew there was an issue with seal on removing rubber hub dust cap. On review, it's not a grinding just a sort of rubbing sound, which is consistent with the rotation of the wheels/tyres/axle, i.e. rubbing sound slows as I go slower...

I've got grinding/rubbing sound from rear of Landy. Checked rear diff, level ok, wheels off and checked brake pads, calipers, mud shields, all ok. Took flanges off to put wheels back on to give them a spin and noticed 1 side had oil in when dust cap removed. Presume seal has gone, question is...

Thanks for all responses. Did a bit of emailing and the 5 suppliers of said Poly Bushes when asked, “do you need a metal centre sleeve for these?” Response was “No, as they are Poly Bushes!” So clear as mud, suppliers vs real life Landy drivers and tinkerers!

Thanks for responses. Getting confused now, just contacted supplier and they’re advising, due to make up of poly bushes there is no need for a metal sleeve to be fitted???

Hi All, Bought a set of Brtpart Poly Bushes a while back and just about to start to change Rear Shocks on my Puma 110. Opened box and the Poly Bush Upper come in 2 halves perfect for fitting, once I get rubber ones off shocks. Question is, the bag with the Poly bushes in(NRC5593PY - black)...

Yes, I'm just sourcing shocks and will sort myself! Will also make sure I don't allow this or any garage near my Landy, except for MOTs!

I have a Landy to do list and it never seems to get shorter!

According to info on the 2007 - On Workshop Manual the Nm for Glow Plugs on a 2.4tdci is 10Nm. Page attached. I know yours is a TD5, but shows they don't need 50Nm!

Update - found an unmade/muddy car park and tried diff lock out, worked perfectly. Had to do as you suggested, reverse to get it out of diff lock once, but all good. Thanks for help on this, much appreciated.