Many years ago I got fed up chasing the old worn out butterfly vacuum issues and fitted a Hella "U28" electric vacuum pump to my Series three. Triggered from the brake light switch via a relay, all worked a treat and was only a couple of hours to fit. The pump was badged as a Volvo part, only...

When I did mine I just turned a suitable drift on the lathe and tapped them out with a hammer. Same drift to fit the new ones. From memory the location / valve stem diameter is 11/32"

You say you "packed the bearings with grease" Not a good idea, it is industry practice to only grease to two thirds full to allow the grease to move and do it's job.

Can't give you a walk through guide but the best thing I did to my series three. Remove the manifold butterfly/linkage and blank off with 1/4" (6mm) bolt/studding and sealing washers. Source an electric vacuum pump. I used a Hella U28 ( a Volvo part) Mount on the bulkhead close to the servo and...

Three or five bearing crank ? Three bearing with split seal is a challenge, I have had 10,000 miles/8 months from one without leaks others didn't make it out of the garage.

I fitted a 12v vacuum pump triggered from the brake light switch via a relay. Hella U28 or U30 (a Volvo part ?) There used to be a Dutch eBay seller supplying these, worth an eBay search for vacuum pump ? mine took around 2 hours to fit and looked neat on the bulkhead. Downside is the sound if...

I suffered from this many years ago (I no longer run a series) For me the cure was to bin the butterfly valve which is difficult to set up with all the wear in the linkage and fit an electric vacuum pump.

Many years ago I made a small batch of mainshaft tools to lend out to others in the series community. Part number 600-300. They where free to use but inspite of asking for a returnable £20 deposit not all came back. Having a bit of a clearout I have two left, they are made from EN24T steel with...

Re 3.54 diffs, what engine are you running ? 2.25 diesel will struggle, I managed a couple of weeks before reverting to 4.7s and yes the engine was good after a decent rebuild.

I had a series three that was originally yellow. It had spent the first 20 years of it's life on Bristol airport.

Try chalking the shoes to see the contact area.

Silly one not mentioned yet, is the bonding strap/cable from engine block to chassis still in place and connected ?

I don't suppose it really matters but I favour EP90 oil. The railco relies on splash lubrication, hence the need to lock up the freewheeling hubs often. I modify the top kingpin to take a grease nipple + drill a hole/turn a groove and add a cross hole for the grease. The odd squirt with the...

You are not the first or last person to have that happen, I have the tee shirt.......

Be prepared to replace the front crank pulley as well, they don't cost a lot and your old one may have a groove worn in and will not seal.

If there was nothing in there before then yes. It may be a location position for machining when the casting was first machined ?

Looks like a location dowel. Sailsbury or Rover diff ?

Have you used an alignment tool or old first motion shaft to fit the clutch ? If all is correct they are doable on your own but easier with help.

The 2.6 is a nice engine, I once ran a six pot Land Rover but moved it on due to fuel consumption. I also had two Rover cars a 90 and a 95 (P4) with essentially the same engine. Inlet over exhaust valve arrangement goes back in time design wise but gives good torque. Bear in mind that all these...

Electric vacuum pump triggered off the brake light switch. Be sure to fit a relay in circuit to reduce the load on the switch. Look at Hella U28 or U30 sometimes fitted to Volvos.