Just to update this old thread and for anyone else that may suffer a similar problem. The cause of excess pressure was ...... wait for it you'll laugh when you find out ... it was ... The naffin cyclone breather was defective, the hole that was supposed to be under the spring loaded diaphragm...

Cheers, think i'll see about getting myself a Hawkeye. If it turns out not to work with the early D1's should be easy enough to find a buyer for a little used Hawkeye lol, but even better if it does work as then i'll be able to help out others with this prob as there seem to be a few about...

Sounds like could be pipe work or connectors. Bit of washing up liquid solution sprayed/brushed around pipework & connectors might show up a leak?

Just had a nosey on the internet and found some info from nanocom regarding P38's that used the TRW MPS aka Distributed SRS (sensors in wings as apposed to in unit) and also that the Hawkeye application list says Discovery Series 1 Airbag 95-96 TRW MPS J1962 Cable (BA 5071) Adapter Grey...

Did you manage to get the light to go off in the end or did you just opt for the fudge it option??

I'm beginning to think this may be the solution, seems the earlier systems were a bit of an oddity, talk about building in obsolescence! ;) Glad I've also got another Disco with non of this electronic s*** in!

Cheers, i'm hoping to get started this weekend so will have a good look around the trouble spots. Would a diagnostic point me in the right direction or were they not that advanced back then?

Very true! If it works i shall get a unit, as i'm removing the battery soon in able to start the weldathon, i figured that that would put the light on again anyway. I just want to be sure i can turn it off again. I suspect the reason it's on is due to a low voltage issue as there's no...

Can anyone confirm (preferably by experience or first hand knowledge) whether a Hawkeye diagnostic gizmo will allow me to reset the SRS light on my recently acquired 300 Tdi Auto please doesn't seem to say on Hawkeye site? (Earlier Distributed SRS, the one with two sensor either side of the...

Cheers will give cleaning a go, had a search the t' interweb and some say it'll reset itself when fault cleared some say it'll need resetting with (expensive) gizmo. Only reason i'm bothering about it is the fact it's a mot fail, plan b is to wire light up to timer (As it's my vehicle and my...

Hi All, anyone local (Staffs area) have a suitable code reading/resetting gizmo to suit a 94 300 Tdi Auto please and a have bugger all better to do for a few mins sometime? Got the dreaded SRS illuminated all the time on the dash and would like to find out what the cause is, just in case it's...

Yep couldn't be bothered to set it up on the mill and skim it, no distortion to bother the dti much so just flatted it off. Guess pressure testing may have shown any faults up but as head was ok before it came off (No hgf just the leaking block core plug) i rather thought things would be...

Hi, no didn't have it pressure tested as the original reason for removing the head was to fix/replace a leaky core plug at back of engine block (now temporarily bodged until the return of warmer weather and use of a unit to remove engine permit!) there wasn't an issue with the head that i was...

Hi all, after some pointers to my g/f's Disco problems. I've changed the head gasket twice, first time using a metal sandwich gasket, then removed the head again gave it a poor man's skim (glass plate and 600 grit wet and dry) to remove any high spots and used the normal gasket type as this...

Cheers, never thought of that, just had a quick look but doesn't look promising. Ah well just have to put up with a few more days using the pushbike for work lol

Hi all does anyone know if there is anywhere i could get a 3 hole 300 tdi head gasket from on a Sunday? Ordered one, but it didn't arrive today and rather hoped to get it sorted over the weekend! Cheers Glenn

Yep think that might be plan B, might as well give it a go in situ first not got a lot to lose. Rather hoping my gadget idea may work though, hoping to try the weekend if weather permits! (Oh for a dry area to work on it lol) Cheers All

Right my possible solution to this problem is something like: Remove old core plug: I reckon i've just enough space to get the head of my plasma cutter or die grinder onto the old core plug to cut a levering out hole to remove the old plug Refit new core plug: I notice there's a convinient...

Update : Found the leak with the use of friend with a pressure tester and it turns out it was the core plug at the rear that's nigh on impossible to get at! Now trying to come up with method of removing the old and fitting the new _without_ removing the engine any one done this? Cheers

Cheers, i've not reset the tappets yet as i wanted to make sure the leak had gone. I may drain the system again loosen the head bolts off and redo the torque setting as i'm not 100% I followed the procedure correctly the first time. (40Nm then 60° then 60° again according to bolt tightening...