The springs look like they are on the wrong axles to me. They need swapping round. The thicker springs should be on the rear and the thinner ones on the front.

Sounds like welding distortion pulling the back of the chassis up. Without seeing in the flesh it’s hard to say exactly. I’d do like your saying and slit through the chassis, I’d go for the top down on the repair then when it’s realigned and welded up over plate the cut/weld.

I’ve had 2 Demand Engineering exhausts on 300tdi rebuilds. They are of very high quality completely stainless and fitted without any issues. Pretty sure you can buy puma ones off the shelf or you can speak to them and get a more bespoke one if you like. Just my experiences with them and a happy...

Had similar on my 300tdi. The pas pump pulley shaft was no longer secured in the pump casing causing it to move out which in turn shredded the aux belt. New pump and belt for mine. Looks similar from the photo.

Fully agree with Litch. I fitted them to my rebuild, they are great, come with all fixings etc. You’ll never stop all the spray/crud getting on the chassis but it stops the abrasion effect which is the damaging issue for the high impact areas on the chassis.

Might just be the photos but looks like the wrong hub to me. New one is for disc brakes. You need part number FRC6141 for drum brake hub (if you want a new hub)

If you’re worried about overloading the ignition live circuit by using a main feed from the ignition switch, instead run a separate feed to your console from the battery live fitting a relay (power to make) that is switched from the ignition live. This way you get an ignition switched live...

it’s forward of the rear shock top mounts. The photo is a Richards chassis which is slightly different to allow less of a trap.

Another area to check is the rear A frame crossmember where the gussets are on the chassis rails, it’s a proper moisture/dirt trap. after doing 2 chassis changes it opens your eyes to how bad the chassis get when you have them fully stripped down.

If you take the serpentine belt off and run the engine up it will prove or rule out anything running off the belt.

Fitted 2 screens in different trucks both with aftermarket seals with no problems. Use concentrate screen wash to help when fitting.

Yes there is an electrical block connector that has been cut off. Try AutoSparks, they make complete looms but might be able to supply you a connector.

There’s a couple of second hand dial torque wrenches on eBay.

If you currently have the square flange and are replacing with the round flange kit remember to remove the spacer fitted behind the square flange, the round flange doesn’t require it.

You can fit a V8 5th year which increases the gearing in 5th. I have one and it seems ok. Ashcroft now do a 1.3 gear set for the transfer box which might be worth a look.

Tamar Blue is a nice defender colour

I have removed and refitted a transfer box and gearbox alone. Used a trolley jack to remove and refit using an adapter to balance the boxes in the right position. Used a bottle jack under the front of the engine to get the right angle to slide the boxes out.

I have been round the Richards chassis production line when I picked my chassis up. They are jig built and do have a laser cutter. Can’t comment why they might have made mistakes with certain chassis but i’m sure if you contact them they will sort you out. The service I received when buying my...

I’ve recently bought front wing panels from them. They were packaged in there own boxes strapped within a larger box. That was it though, no impact resistant packing. Luckily there were no dents or scratches. Hope this sheds some light for you.

Might be your brake pads moving in the caliper?