mick 1986

mick 1986

Well-Known Member
Has anyone removed the transfer box alone? I swapped my 1.4 for a 1.2 last week, but had some help. It’s now developed quite a leak, but it didn’t leak on the discovery it came from, so I need to take it off an investigate where it’s coming from. Problem is, I will be alone doing it. I have use of an engine hoist, but don’t really have the space to use it (road side). I could possibly get use of a barn which would solve the issue, but trying to come up with a backup if I can’t get the barn.

Next thing, the transfer box came off a 300tdi auto, but went onto an lt77. Are the seals for the input shaft the same? Or should I have used the seal from the 1.4 and lt77?
 
I have removed and refitted a transfer box and gearbox alone. Used a trolley jack to remove and refit using an adapter to balance the boxes in the right position. Used a bottle jack under the front of the engine to get the right angle to slide the boxes out.
 
mick 1986 said:
T


Thanks for the link. I have just had a quick look. Never thought to use a pull lift, but makes more sense than messing on trying to lift the hoist and seat the splines at the same time.
Click to expand...
It's not really that heavy you can use a cheap puller like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Ton-He...ing-Boating-Tool-NEW-/372599198075?nav=SEARCH
Allows you to move it up and down by the millimeter.
By the way no need to strip out all of the cab I had other stuff needed doing.
 
Remove the input gear when fitting the tfer box then fit it afterwards saves having to line up the splines whilst balancing the awkward shape/weight of the tfer box, just watch the input seal.
 
I have done it on my own a couple of times, I am possibly younger and stronger than some of the members here so I do it all manually. I just pull it off by hand and lower it onto my chest. Refitting is the same just lift it up into place from my chest. Definitely remove the input gear to refit, makes things much easier. You can do it tiwh slings and an engine crane but it is a challenge to get it to come up square due to the offset weight. If I was using lifting aids, I would build a cradle to use a jack.

Depending on where the leak is form you may have caught the input seal when refitting. I did this when I last refitted mine, when I removed it again it was slightly buckled. It meant the repair was easy enough as a new seal and it no longer leaks, but it would empty the box in less than 1000 miles..
 
I have been searching for I picture I posted at least twice showing a simple wooden cradle which fits the box and makes it better to lift from below, bloody search never works for me.
Will keep looking.
 
dag019 said:
I have done it on my own a couple of times, I am possibly younger and stronger than some of the members here so I do it all manually. I just pull it off by hand and lower it onto my chest. Refitting is the same just lift it up into place from my chest. Definitely remove the input gear to refit, makes things much easier. You can do it tiwh slings and an engine crane but it is a challenge to get it to come up square due to the offset weight. If I was using lifting aids, I would build a cradle to use a jack.

Depending on where the leak is form you may have caught the input seal when refitting. I did this when I last refitted mine, when I removed it again it was slightly buckled. It meant the repair was easy enough as a new seal and it no longer leaks, but it would empty the box in less than 1000 miles..
Click to expand...

It’s quite a leak, so I’m hoping it’s from something like the input seal. We weren’t too gentle putting it back on, so possible we damaged it. What part number is the input seal for using with the LT77? Any idea?

After doing a lot of research lastnight, I think I will use some long bolts and slide it back with a jack under it and see if I can identify the leaking part/seal first. One thing I didn’t do when I rebuilt it was use any sort of thread seal on the bolts, which doesn’t help.
 
raywin said:
I have been searching for I picture I posted at least twice showing a simple wooden cradle which fits the box and makes it better to lift from below, bloody search never works for me.
Will keep looking.
Click to expand...

That would be handy if you can locate a link to it. I will search for it tonight, see what I can come up with.
 
lynall said:
Remove the input gear when fitting the tfer box then fit it afterwards saves having to line up the splines whilst balancing the awkward shape/weight of the tfer box, just watch the input seal.
Click to expand...

Just make a note of which way it goes.
You can turn these round & only have 3 gears
 
"I have been searching for I picture I posted at least twice showing a simple wooden cradle which fits the box and makes it better to lift from below, bloody search never works for me.
Will keep looking."

Photos of my own cradle shown below.


I have removed / fitted gearboxes & transfer boxes several ways over the years and almost always single handed.

Remove the seatbox & tunnel, stand astride and lower / lift the lump into position (gearbox & transfer-box separately). Not too bad as long as you can manage the weight. o_O
From underneath using only a jack. Not to be recommended as you have to position yourself carefully, did it this way once only. :confused:
Using an engine crane with the seatbox removed, got to be the easiest option requiring the least effort although it does mean more disassembly of the vehicle. :D
And of course using the cradle as shown below, as long as you have a good trolley-jack and a smooth surface then there shouldn't be any problems however if the balance isn't correct then it could tilt and of course you have to put the transfer-box onto the cradle in the first place. :)

I bought a decent engine crane when I did my auto conversion back in 2016 and it made the job easy. What happened later though was that I realised that the Disco transfer-box (that had suited the 300TDi & R380 so well since new) was not a good match with the auto and rather than taking the seatbox etc out again I decided to do it from underneath using the cradle. As it turns out, a relatively neat solution that only took a few hours one Saturday

DSCF0002.JPG
DSCF0005.JPG
DSCF0008.JPG
DSCF0012.JPG
 
Hicap phill said:
Just make a note of which way it goes.
You can turn these round & only have 3 gears
Click to expand...


You will have to enlighten me how the tfer box input gear effects the number of gears available?

I once fitted one the wrong way the ensuing howling noise meant I only went two miles before a hasty returrn was called for, pretty sure I had all 5 gears?
 
Litch said:
"I have been searching for I picture I posted at least twice showing a simple wooden cradle which fits the box and makes it better to lift from below, bloody search never works for me.
Will keep looking."

Photos of my own cradle shown below.


I have removed / fitted gearboxes & transfer boxes several ways over the years and almost always single handed.

Remove the seatbox & tunnel, stand astride and lower / lift the lump into position (gearbox & transfer-box separately). Not too bad as long as you can manage the weight. o_O
From underneath using only a jack. Not to be recommended as you have to position yourself carefully, did it this way once only. :confused:
Using an engine crane with the seatbox removed, got to be the easiest option requiring the least effort although it does mean more disassembly of the vehicle. :D
And of course using the cradle as shown below, as long as you have a good trolley-jack and a smooth surface then there shouldn't be any problems however if the balance isn't correct then it could tilt and of course you have to put the transfer-box onto the cradle in the first place. :)

I bought a decent engine crane when I did my auto conversion back in 2016 and it made the job easy. What happened later though was that I realised that the Disco transfer-box (that had suited the 300TDi & R380 so well since new) was not a good match with the auto and rather than taking the seatbox etc out again I decided to do it from underneath using the cradle. As it turns out, a relatively neat solution that only took a few hours one Saturday

View attachment 189930 View attachment 189931 View attachment 189932 View attachment 189933
Click to expand...


Obviously photoshopped as there is no evidence of oil leaks:D
 
Transfer-box was in excellent / low mileage condition (see...… they don't ALL leak! :p) but it was just the mis-match of ratios that made me decide to change it.
I could have done it at the same time as fitting the auto but I wanted to be sure that I was doing the right thing so I lived with it for a year before going for the Defender-box.
 
mick 1986 said:
It’s quite a leak, so I’m hoping it’s from something like the input seal. We weren’t too gentle putting it back on, so possible we damaged it. What part number is the input seal for using with the LT77? Any idea?
Click to expand...

The transferbox input seal I used was IVC100000
 
123-eddy09 said:
I have removed and refitted a transfer box and gearbox alone. Used a trolley jack to remove and refit using an adapter to balance the boxes in the right position. Used a bottle jack under the front of the engine to get the right angle to slide the boxes out.
Click to expand...

Me too on many occasions, especially easy if you are just fitting a clutch and don't need to remove the lump from underneath.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

stoney424
What colour speedo drive gear should I be using?
Replies
3
Views
439
miktdish
miktdish
1
Transfer Box change 1.4 to 1.2
2
Replies
25
Views
3K
Brown
Brown
NiallRussell
need help, can you diagnose this...
Replies
4
Views
262
NiallRussell
NiallRussell
S
Transfer box removal
Replies
8
Views
863
dag019
dag019
H
R380 stumpy
Replies
13
Views
1K
300tdi Tango
300tdi Tango