… here you go - how to test ya camshaft sensor Skip to 3.57

You can back-probe the camshaft sensor to test it. 3 wires on the multiplug - the signal wire should get around 4-7v on cranking IIRC. My last one gave about 0.5! There is a u-tube how to on it… I’ll see if I can find it…

I don’t, but why do you want to?

I know someone who has a 2009 F2 with 2021 maps running on it’s system - but I have no details of ‘how’ etc. It is, therefore, doable. I imagine it is a cd.

You’ll have to come out with me and @haza88 when we go laning again. Nothing nasty or technical, just a nice morning/afternoon out

I did notice the RHD railway in the back of your project photos, but didn’t want to say anything that might give away your area - but now you have, so… 🤣

Did you ever sell the husky?

… and don’t buy a cheap Chinesium replacement camshaft sensor - that will let you down too. Don’t ask me how I know.

… @Arctic2 already showed you…! https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/engine-wont-turn-over-intermittent.392336/#post-5694943

If it’s F1 TD4, it’s at the front, slightly to the right of center as you look in the engine bay. Remove the battery tray first. 2 bolts IIRC - 1 is ‘hidden’ 1 bolt holding the main wire on You can buy replacement contact kits and plunger on the bay for pennies.

… your issue is that the engine turns over a bit before firing, and you are now onto looking at new injectors :stars: Diagnose the issue before worrying about what it ‘might’ be!

… well you won’t be reading any codes like that

Ideally, read the live data and you’ll see the fuel pressures

Into the air intake - just 1 or 2 seconds, then turn the key. Dont worry about trying to reconnect the intake, just turn the key - it’ll fire up. Just make sure you don’t have a loose hose clip or something that will fall off (down!) when she starts…

… try the easy-start test as @lynall suggests. It’ll give you an indication for a couple of quid, before you start getting in to the harder stuff. If you’ve not long had it, run some Comma diesel magic or similar through it for a couple of (half) tanks of fuel - you may find that shifts some of...

I put those RR’s that did it right (bow wave) down to them being used for the school run primarily, and they were just going slow for fear it got dirty… 😉

The inside of your drums will look like something like this - I don’t how long mine had been in for (this pic is obviously prior to me stripping). The wheel cylinder at the top should be replaced, and the 2 ‘rusty’ pins we refer to can be seen left and right. Note all the spring positions...

If you are going to spray the bottom with lanoguard or similar, get the loose rust off first with a wire brush…

Rear brake drums will look rusted on the outside… to be fair, as GG says, the pins inside will probably be rusted, so worth your while stripping and replacing all if you plan on keeping it - quite inexpensive. I just cleaned the adjusters on a wire wheel. Make sure to get new wheel cylinders...

Just googled - I want one of them! Silly price, but looks great