i would have done a leak off test as well, a dodgy injector would stop the pressure in the fuel rail

pick up an engine you can strip and rebuild whilst you drive it then swap over later

more black splodges

no a horrible light gray covered in years of dirt

ive watched with interest since ive just layed hands on a mk1 austin, lots of welding before i even look at the engine

if its a pre 2005 model it wont have it

its worth that just for useable parts

its ok he will probably end up on the side of a road some were waiting for recovery

no ones banning you, your just ignoring everything anyone else says , so do it simples

so go do it, but dont come here for help if it goes wrong

to change a rusty diff

yes and your rr doesnt have the same gearbox as the one with the higher ratio, its stronger than yours for a reason

is there a dick ignore button then?

and of cause you didnt notice your rr has a diffrent gearbox to the one whos diffs you want to put in

your car is an auto it always starts in 1st, which will work out were my second is if you change the diffs, all of the ratios are available if looked up, and the reason i used to start in second(not any more) is because my first is lower than the autobox first and it saved a gear change untill...

pulling away in first is very relevant even when not towing your 1st gear will fall roughly were my 2nd gear is according to your figers and starting in second gear is what destroys the centre bearing on my prop, oh and ive not changed any mountings

now you have looked at what happens in top gear have a look at what happens when you raise the ratio when in first and go from a standing start

people were telling you what may go wrong but you dismiss it as not relevant then quote figers which untill its done are but theoretical, i havent even mentioned the centre prop bearing, which i can tell you disintigrates with a manual box due to extra stresses

i think your trying to convince your self not us

i cant shout too much i changed mine