The XYZ or starter inhbitor has nothing to do with your problem or with the fob's misbehaviour nor responding to the EKA code remobilisation, it's something else, probably BCU related but not subject of a guessing game without proper diagnoze. Seems so ... at least untill the problems were all...

In a very strange way it can be connected if the problem comes from the BCU which affects them all, you'll have to see the stored fault code in the autobox ECU but as long as it didnt affect anything the M +S can be a sign of weak battery too... investigations are needed

I've seen a few with blocked exhaust/catalyst but none of them got more than 350-400 kg/hr air flow while this one has arund 550 that's why the MAP/boost reading is more relevant

You keep insisting on the air flow reading but what's the MAP(or turbo boost) value at that air flow? better attach the inputs fuelling log somehow to see the whole thing cos you can't compare a manual's readings with an auto... do they both have catalyst?... and what about the EGR, is it bypassed?

I can't tell you more than i've already did at reply #6

Hi, you'll have to check with the second fob too and if it's the same the RF receiver is the first suspect which would cause the starting issue too cos it doesnt communicate with the passive remmobilisation exciter coil then that suplimentary unlock command with the fob is needed to remmobilise...

Run a stall test on it

Sorry, i have no ideea

As long as the socket on the pump has the same shape and pinout like the female plug on the old pump's cable and it accepts the vehicle's male plug which can reach the socket it should be plug and play even though rewiring such pump is not something hard to do

If no difference with MAF unplugged it's not that.... what do you mean you have no dash lights? they dont come on at all for the ignition self test?

I have no ideea, my guess is that you'll have to remove it and refit it using the correct procedure

Hi, that's the problem IMO, it must be connected and energised to be swapped also after that it needs calibration so you need a proper diagnostic tool which has this function, you can just simply mechanically swap it

Even if the voltage doesnt drop so much with extra power but still hard to start the internal problem of the starter can mix up the crank signal's waveform and disturb the ECU, i hate to recommend more work while i'm not sure that's the problem cos i'll have a remorse if you work in vain but if...

IMO that's the problem, the ECU needs at least 11V while cranking to start right away, 10.5 is the lowest limit, i'd replace the starter motor if you are certain that the battery is not weak or use jump leads from other vehicle and if it still drops to 10 or below with extra power then the...

I presume it was with ignition on and engine not running then the readings are OK, now watch the rpm and battery voltage while cranking and tell how much is the airflow after it started

Nope

It's much bigger work than it appears, grille and side finishers + separate indicators, levelling motors and wiring mods for that, welding and grinding as well, at the end it can be beneficial cos those lamps are not chased by thiefs and even if they are hurt are quite cheap by new and way much...

then read the FT from cold in the morning after a night rest without starting the engine only with ignition on, it should be the same with the coolant temp at that point if the sensor is OK and close to the ambient/overall temp(use a laser thermometer on the head for that) if you see what i mean

No you can't rule out a manual ECU with an auto one but even if you could you would need nanocom or similar to set it and if you have such disgnostic tool you can read live data from the sensors and that's the only way to fix this thing if it's a management issue not some mechanical or fuel...

Yes it can be the fuel temp sensor which is in the FPR but only live data can reveal it cos it doesnt trigger a fault code if it has erratic readings only if it's short or open circuit.