Sleeve them with scaffold tube or steam pipe. Fully weld all the joints, then crank them in a pipe bender as one unit. Not had one break on me yet. Touch wood.

+1 for Auto. Use a 1.6:1 transfer box to give you better engine braking. If you are clumsy in a manual you are more likely to break diffs and shafts where as the auto takes up drive smoother. Also not advised but I find you can also feather the brakes when descending in an auto without as...

It's the latest thing around Notts too :( If they can't steal the doors and bonnet or get the vehicle away. They just burn it out on your drive!

Take the plastic covers off your engine and take a look at all the coolant hoses to see if there is any tell tale pink stains anywhere. Do the same on the underside pay attention to the bottom of the water pump housing and also the steel water pipe that runs across the front cross member.

I can't see the above link. Is this what you are after? http://bit.ly/WqQlPW

Discool beat me to it

I never remembered the speed transducer being part of just the Efi harness? There is no need for a speed signal. The original transfer box will have the original speedo cable that feeds the original defender speedo?

He is using the original gearbox so there is no speed transducer. The lambda sensors can be used as they are part of the Efi harness. As far as the cats, I would suggest don't fit them and just act ignorant when it comes to MoT time. Save the cats just incase they make you use them.

Fit the entire engine loom, run it on the underside of the gearbox tunnel and mount the ECU behind the drivers seat. There is only a few wires that you need to feed the rest is pretty much self contained. Live, earth, ignition live, fuel pump feed.

That is such an open question! It could be many things.... Brakes sticking Turbo dying Intercooler hose collapsing or leaking Timing wrong Fuel lift pump failing. When was it last serviced?

In my defender I have bought a cheap remote alarm that I use to activate, my heated seat, heated screen and heated mirror relay. All this runs from my aux battery. So when it looks defrosted out the kitchen window, I go down jump in and at least I can see where in going and have got a warm bum :)

It is generally a sign that the alternator is on its way out or at least the diode pack on the rear of it.

This is the earth from the battery where it bolts to the inside of the chassis. The cable is more than likely loose inside the metal tab,

It does and the cheapo home brand stuff is cheaper than the proper screen wash ;)

Either supply your own chassis or we can supply a Marsland 90 chassis for £1326 delivered inc VAT Labour for base chassis change is £850inc VAT Any further info PM me

They way I have done it in the past is to trigger it with a separate relay from the back of the ignition on the point between ignition and cranking like an early 2.5NA. Then another relay giving switched earth for the light on the dash

Stick a modern driver of modern cars in any series for a month, that will teach them how to drive :)

There are 47 versions listed on Microcat so may take some time to find what is available and which is the cheapest

They are still available new from Genuine Land Rover AWJ710060 approx £125 + Vat That is a TD5 RH version but is basically the same part as all the previous ones. TDCi ones are now different Also.... ASR2252 is available from Britpart @ less than £50 which is also a RH version

A worn propshaft UJ. Chock the wheels, let the handbrake off and make sure it's in neutral. Get underneath and give the props a wiggle towards the end near the UJ. You will soon see if there is play. If you check with handbrake on you will not be able to feel any slack.