So many variables mate. Alot of which can be solved fairly cheaply with a few tools and a workshop manual. Cheap and easy things first, change the UJ's and the drive flanges. Any really minor wear in the drive flange translates to massive movement by the time it reaches the edge of the tyre...

Well i'll try this one for size and keep that one as a spare :) The exhaust will stay green for about 5 miles im betting. Any longer and i'll be very surprised. It is 2k paint though so it should do pretty well with heat unless its extreme. Jai, i'll grind that and run a pretty bead down it...

nah jus jack the wheel up. if you've done that already then jus hit it harder ;)

jack the wheel up, there might be alot of torsion acting on it that will grip the splines. Then give it a smack and see if it breaks free

Lots of work done over past few days. Been a busy day and cba to go through all the minor details of how i did what. Made up a custom grill from a sheet of ally (yes it looks restrictive, its a WIP) Finished fabbing and mounting my exhaust stack. Mounting is made from old chassis metal and...

looked at a few pictures on the intertubes... the landrover one seems to be of similar design to the mantec plastic one. It will be the same height as your roof. Maybe a teensy bit higher but nothing massive

Wheels sprayed and fitted, exhaust bracket welded to some flexi

Hey Tom, im in yardley wood now. Used to live in chelmsley wood so yeah i know marston green :) Gotta paint the diffs, slam panel support bars. Maybe props too im not sure yet. Oh and springs as soon as i get a replacement jack

Bit of work done over the past few days. Plated up the hole in the passenger foot well and painted a few odds and sods on the car. Need this rain to **** off so i can crack on with my zorst!

Omg I didn't know this was on. I'll be there!

No mate, no clunk. Easy test for you. Jack one wheel off the ground and gently try to drive with it out of lock, the wheel should turn. Lock the diff and do ur again. This time super gentle. The car will try to move forward.

Drill the top off of it and pull the disk off.. Screw should be loose enough to unwind by hand once the tension is off it. Replace when ur done

Mine is smooth as anything as well mate. So long as the lever moves and the light comes on ur good.

You gotta change the linkage on the top and swap the bell housing over. then it should work. Not very easy to swap the linkages over i dont believe

Oh god. That's too funny. Still, best its something simple and now it's sorted. I'd rather be an idiot with a working car than a smart ass broke guy with no car

Best thing i can suggest mate is to get to a local motor factors and get a new lift pump. They aint that expensive and they can make a hell of a difference if its replacing a duff one. Once the new one is fitted (jus two bolts, very easy) Use the priming lever and bleed each item in the circuit...

You sorted this yet? Crack the nut on each injector in turn and turn the engine over till you get doozel squirting out.... WATCH YOUR EYES!

Quickest fix won't be the best. Sounds like ur lift pump has had it. Or the cam is in the lifted position. Turn the engine over for a click then try again

Probably one I fitted! Haha

Yeah fitting some sort of switch console. How much do I really need? Fuel level and warning Illumination Lights Indicators Hand brake Ignition Oil pressure Temperature High beam Diff lock Fog light Am I missing anything? That's already a **** storm of wires. Half of them functions don't...