I also get the oil pressure light flash up on heavy breaking, or steep descents off road. Not investigated it yet but I'm on new mounts post full rebuild and definitely correct oil level on the stick.

If you've got a welder, try running a small bead of weld on the inside of the outer bearing race, as the weld cools it shrinks the race slightly and usually drops out...

When I used to work in a motor factor we kept big books/catalogues of brake pad and disc fitments/applications. At the back was each part number with exact dimensions annotated; stud pattern, thickness, bore etc. If you could find an old school motor factor that's still likely to have the...

Then our experiences have differed, which is fine. I've fitted many blue box parts over the last few years and yes some are of poorer quality, but I've yet to find any completely unworkable. My outlook on it was I'd rather do my rebuild for a reasonable cost fitting Britpart where I can and...

Bull**** to the nay sayers. Nothing wrong with the majority of Britpart parts, chances are they come from the same factory as parts you're happy to pay twice as much for. They all need a regulatio BS.. I couldn't have rebuilt my S3 109 for 10k if I didn't use BP parts, just use some common...

You'd be wise to ignore colours, they're likely to have been changed at some point in the last 50 years. It won't be hard to trace the wires back to their corresponding plug or component.

That 4v is the voltage needed for the ground to return to the battery, it should obviously be zero because there shouldn't be any resistance there. That also means your starter is only allowed to use 8 volts, because of the 4 needed to overcome the earth fault. Giving it a proper earth will...

Doesn't matter where it is, but I think it's usually on the right side if looking in the engine bay. No earth there would definitely explain the sparks, utilising the throttle linkage as the bridge between engine/starter and chassis.

It would be logical that they're done to the same torque as the wheel nut themselves, no? Perhaps with some strong threadlock to keep them there.

Just to pick a few... There were moments of gold There were things I'd never do again There were nights of endless pleasure There were hours that just went on for days Though I'm sure you could make all of it relate somehow.

Out of context yes it probably is, but I was referring to the multitude of similar questions he's already asked.

What would you do if you couldn't just make random threads on here asking pointless questions? Do some research, buy some books, go and look at different vehicles and work it out. You aren't going to make any progress (with a Landy or in life) if you expect everything to be spoon fed.

No, that's not how it works. That's called theft. You might get V5 but doesn't mean it's yours.

The dash vents are simply an earlier version for S3 than the smaller ones.

Can definitely recommend this. I run just the bikini top 75% of the time, then pop on door tops and the fume curtain if it's chilly or expecting to rain. I don't run the drain channels from screen to hoop, just the bikini top by itself. Yes there's a small gap around the door top when fitted...

You still haven't given a price.

I read something about Transit mounts being the same fit and a partial upgrade. Can't offer any more than that.

This winch, Warn zeon, is designed to be mounted feet down or feet forward, so that's already been thought of by the manufacturer. I prefer to mount feet forward for reasons you said and so I could fill the gap between the radiator and bumper. The way the bumper is bolted to the chassis also...

I was dubious of the bumper fixings too, but you have to consider the winch itself is only supplied/fitted with 4 x M10 8.8 grade bolts anyway, so if they're up to the job so are the bumper bolts.

Afternoon all, Few photos of the bumper I've just finished for my 109. 6mm bumper with some extra brackets to accept a Warn 10,000lb 12v winch. Couple of recovery eyes for good measure then galvanised.