Swivel pin load and steering joints it is then, good luck.

The axle ones I mean.

A dead or nearly dead shock/damper can result in that sort of rattle upon hitting a pot hole but pre load first.

Fix the other side, new top pin and bush if there is any side to side movement at the top of the swivel housing. In this case just removing shims will only improve things for a bit.

Get a proper bumper, that box section looks horrible.

Endoscope attachment for I phone and look through the slave as per @D1Nut post. Mine's arm went at 69K [ I keep a record of major repair/service items] It would depend on where you live, driving with me is mostly up hill and down the cwm on back roads so lots of changes.

Seal gone?

I have a couple of roof bars for when needed. I DO NOT leave them on, loads of wind noise and great when off road for catching over growth.

Had my landy a long time. When it was still a 19j about 23 year ago had the original fork go through. Also found its pivot had worn to a point. Replaced with standard fork and new pivot with a dab of grease on it. 3 Years later 19j was done and replaced with a Defender 200tdi Fork was fine...

There will not be a huge difference between AT and what are often called "all weather" noise wise. Fitting a lower profile tyre to fit into multi story's will upset your gearing, needing more revs to obtain the same road speed as before. You have a roof rack in your pic. Take it off to reduce...

I did a partial strip down on an lt230 that came my way last year. Like yours it turned nice and smooth but had sat a long time. Flanges off to check lands, bottom plate to check gears, diff lock shaft needed freeing up. Some Gaskets and seals was all that were needed. I did do those 0 ring...

It wont just pop back in and stay there, given the need to get in the back might as well fit a new one.

I have a 1990 Ninety, had it a long time, never had "isolation pads". As above re unseated spring and also check the shock/damper fittings.

It's the opposite of what you think. The pivot is a basic bush and to get lube in there it will need to be thin, engine oil will do. Better would be RP90 penetrating oil if things are very stiff. Also check return springs are good. Do not use WD40 it is not what it is for despite all the bumph...

I recon so. Likely you will need a different input gear. I do not know what the various part numbers are, much info on Ashcroft's site.

That is well true. :D

There are several differences, an example is early none cross drilled input gears have shorter splines inside. Ashcroft site "ashcroft lt230 input gear" for more info.

So you have two input gears, do they look identical? Are they cross drilled types? I do not see a twist in the shaft though, the rule will not sit straight at the box end because the spline grooves shallow out and widen there, it is just the way they are made.

There are differences. What are the ages of what you have box wise?

Spray some release oil like Plus gas or RP 90 [ even some diesel ] on the wheel studs where the pass through the drum and whack it some more on the rear edge knocking for out. A lump hammer that has a wide face is best.