You know, I'm quite enjoying the change of you editing my posts instead of your own.

Even if I was a bumderer, you wouldn't be my type.

Ah, that's why you're back posting on here. I'll take your (edited) word for that.

Now you know how we feel about your posts. :vb-poke-with-stick: :banana:

Gallon of petrol and a box of matches will sort the problem.

They usually have a manufacturing date or charge by date on them. If it's more than 3-5 years old it would be worth considering replacement.

How old is the battery and is it the correct one?

One person uses heic and expects the forum to change just for them, rather than they change a setting in their phone. Unbelievable.

Looks like a coolant pipe to the heater box. An idea of which engine may help someone give you a part no.

Front driver side half-shaft or drive flange is/are knackered. You'll find out which when you take it apart.

Well done. Remember, it doesn't need torqueing up tight- it is a taper thread. A couple of wraps of PTFE tape will help to seal and help to get it undone again.

You've learnt an important lesson.... Always check you can undo the filler plug before undoing the drain plug.

Also clean all earths (battery to chassis and chassis to engine/gearbox. If you haven't already done so, run a new earth from battery to engine/gearbox.

Engaging diff-lock shouldn't make it go out of high or low range. The lever itself may be fouling on something- enough to move it forward or backward and disengage drive.

Yes. There are a few bed-wetters on here who flourish the card and are flummoxed when it doesn't work.

1. Body tub cappings.

Yer but.....I int a poooofy poof.

I use the trolley jack handle to lever the ball joint up into the taper and tighten the nut with a socket. I int got no pooooofy impact gun.

The ball joint taper locks it firmly in place, not the nut.

No, but people get upset when you say truths and play the racist card in a desperate attempt to stop you.