My brakes work OK, but each time I come up for our WoF, MoT in the UK, the tester rates them at about a low 50% area efficiency which is perilously close to a fail. My test is coming up again and I thinking about trying to improve things. I've already given the drums and rotors a buff with...

Hello Grumpy, yes to that LED. I'm wanting to make that work. I fitted a float switch and that arrangement worked well in the LR tank. I think that the VW tank has 2 wire-like 'prongs' which poke down towards the bottom. You can see these through the open top in older tanks. The coolant makes...

'Ipack temp' sensor, is that the actual temp sensor on the coolant elbow exiting the forward side of the head? Just cut that wire and have the coolant tank in series with it?

Finally got round to replacing the coolant tank. They are not good quality no matter which 'brand' you buy. They all crack and craze around the neck and weep coolant. So I've fitted a VW coolant tank. I tried to use an old LR tank as a 'cradle' to sit the new one in but it was too high and...

Early FL1 brakes - yes they are not great. Mine are border-line at our 6 monthly WoF test [ your MoT], getting a reading in the low 50s on the brake performance meter. I use stock type Brembo pads. Are there better pads / shoes which would give greater stopping ability?

My penny-worth: Payen BW750 definitely. For me, yes I'd do the oil rail too. LR suspected that the FL1 was exposed to greater flexation/flexing? when used 'off road' so the stronger oil rail was intended to add increased rigidity to the engine. Weather that's true or not who knows! I fitted one...

Clutch test? I was just reading Oilydiff’s writing above on their clutch issue… Recently I was on a sandy beach with my small trailer on. It has small 8" rims and quite skinny tyres and as you might guess. With a small load of sand in the trailer I couldn't get out. Stuck :( Happily a passing...

Just saying - but you need to be very careful with any cooker/ lamp inside a vehicle as the carbon monoxide builds up dangerously. Many have died from this - so please take care.

Long draw bar is easier to back. Mine's quite short and its a pig to reverse.

You have been very thorough - you described the sound as similar to an insecure spare wheel in it's stowage space. Have you considered it may be a cracked chassis rail. Most often its the front one on the driver's side but have a careful look at all four mounting points on the rear sub-frame.

"I'm going to rub it down and give it a lick of paint, sort out the guards/mud flaps. Hopefully will look a million dollars by the time I've tarted it up." 4 1/2 years maybe :D:D

It does sound like a HG failure. However, do check everything carefully. Does the coolant level drop? Try bleeding the cooling system again by the two bleed screws on the steel coolant return pipe and the heater pipe. Is the radiator in good condition? Did you fit a good quality coolant pump...

Well my penny-worth based on 7+ years of enjoying my '98 FL1 K1.8: It's fairly quiet, comfortable, good rear passenger leg room, not that thirsty [ 33MpG or better on a run 28 or so with a trailer], easy to work on with parts readily available and reasonable prices, quite good 4WD ability [ do...

I know you sense the smell strongest near the coolant reservoir - All pipe clamps secure? How about down at the IRD cooler pipe connections as I've read that the metal connections can corrode. If the radiator is the original then I'd also suggest having a carefully look at where the horizontal...

I run 225/70/15 on the st'd 5 spoke alloy rims. I think these are a close match to the factory original tyres in size at 195/80/15 but are about 10mm greater in rolling circumference. No they do not rub anything. They are Bridgestone Dueller A/T 697

You right. It's just the K&N Apollo filter with the original rubber connection from the A/F to the throttle, The silicone elbow goes down and then out through the engine bay wall to the CAF I made up some time ago. Yes that is 65mm PVC spouting down-pipe! It wouldn't be hard to add a snorkel to...

Poor cutting technique on my part lead to them being eccentric :oops:

Refitted the original rubber inlet hose - AF to throttle body - and fitted a silicone 90º bend into the AF. That aluminium flexi-pipe had a split and when I took it off it was starting to delaminate inside with small flakes of aluminium hanging down.

update - I heard back from the motor engineers who are looking at the head for me. As they were recutting the valve seats the found two which were not concentric :( So, what to do? Organise another head and start again but taking more care, Or organise replacement valve seats - they are not...

I've used 'house brand' seals, MG Rover, Corteco, Allmakes... and I've not noticed that that pre treatment. I put a smear of clean engine oil on the seals 'lip' to help them slip into position. Would that have any negative effect or shorten their life span or reduce their sealing effectiveness?