andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
A few weeks on from the water boiling and expansion bottle cap failure, my Tangiers Orange 1.8k is showing a minor sign of gas escape from the bores into the water channels.

No significant water loss but very hard coolant hoses, water level dropping, probably due to hose expansion, then coming back up after a few hours when engine off.

Have been closely monitoring the coolant level but I am feeling like a minor leak has started. Trace of white in the oil filler is also looking like evidence.

So, what is the latest thinking?
I am thinking elastomer 750 gasket, metal dowels but on a 2003 car is it worth changing the oil rail? If not is it worth fitting the high tensile head bolts?
Will get head checked for flat before I replace it.

Anyone like to guess how long before it fails? Would like to start work before that point due to the mess!!!

Thanks
 
My anxiety with this kind of gasket failure (i.e. leak of the gasket fire rings) are two fold:
1. The cylinder head has gone through a severe heat cycle and has gone soft
2. The cylinder liners have dropped.

I know you'll be checking both of those things.

If the liner stand proud is less than a thou, you will need to use the BW750, as the MLS will not seal the fire ring correctly.

The questions regarding the HT head bolts and up-graded oil rail are interesting - I am not sure I'd do either to be honest but 10.9 HT head bolts are becoming increasingly common...
 
andyfreelandy said:
I am thinking elastomer 750 gasket, metal dowels but on a 2003 car is it worth changing the oil rail? If not is it worth fitting the high tensile head bolts?
Will get head checked for flat before I replace it.
Click to expand...
I'd use the elastomer gasket in preference to MLS, simply because it seals better from the moment it's fitted.

The oil rail should be the machined one anyway, and 10.9 bolts will do what you need. ;)
 
Thanks, Discount MG Rover Spares state " the strengthened oil rail was only fitted from factory to the MG TF and MG6 Turbo."

But I am thinking that is a load more work for maybe not much, if any, benefit.

I will use a 750 gasket, ht bolts and, when apart, will be checking based on what I find regarding the head and liners.
Apparently all hg now come with metal dowels.

Another job I don't need!!
Belt and water pump too I guess, daft not to.
 
If you’re taking the sump off as part of a rebuild, then fine. Otherwise, I’m with you: I wouldn’t bother…
 
What about the N series gasket. Looks like a multi layer but has sealing on surfaces. Sold with a stronger rail and ht bolts. I'll paste the link. Wonder if this is fussy about liner height??
 
Anyone got experience of the above please? Is liner height critcal as it is multi layer but also has sealant.
Seen some good you tubes on it, but has anyone used one!!??
 
N-series gasket will work - I believe that the oil and coolant pathways are generally very similar to the K-series that it is clearly based on.
FWIW I’m using the BW750 on the MGZR 105 I’m recommissioning for my daughter to learn to drive in :)
 
OK. Thanks have ordered a Bw750, bolts, belt, pump and gasket kit.
I will stay in known territory!!

N series elastomer with multi layers looks good but not sure about ability to deal with used engine and liner levels.
 
I do enjoy working on the K series engine. It's a lovely easy engine, which is straightforward, with pleasantly easy to access components.
The engine in my FL2 while not complicated, is a stupid design, which requires arms of an octopus to get at the many inaccessible fasteners that hold all the various components on place.
I'd happily work on a K any day.
 
My penny-worth: Payen BW750 definitely. For me, yes I'd do the oil rail too. LR suspected that the FL1 was exposed to greater flexation/flexing? when used 'off road' so the stronger oil rail was intended to add increased rigidity to the engine. Weather that's true or not who knows! I fitted one to my motor in 2014... Yes to replacing the H'bolts don't need to be the newest set to match the N series HG. coolant pump, tensioner & cam belt. Thermostat? How's the coolant tank looking - they seem to be crap quality and craze / crack in a couple of years. My original lasted 17 years! new ones - I'm lucky if they last 2. My lates tank is leaking from around its neck . I'm experimenting fitting a VW tank.

Coolant level - mine yo-yos a bit! I do a daily check bit all seems well...
 
Hi Andy, how did it go?
Btw I actually spoke with HTr about this same issue a few times. Think mine also has a slow leak at the fire ring.
I have a 1.8 FL1, engine fully rebuilt in 2016 with new cylinder head. MLS head gasket kit, genuine head bolts, strengthened oil rail. Has been going great till a few months ago. There’s a very small amount of coolant loss, I actually tried Evans waterless powercool 180 and the coolant loss has slowed further. Anyhow, I have ordered the Payen 750 head gasket and when I get a few days I’ll change it. I also have an FL2 and this 1.8 is so uncomplicated in contrast!
Cheers from NSW Australia!
 
Hi,

Not got around to it yet!
Changing the torque converter on my Td4 first.
Have bought a coolant pressure tester before ripping the engine apart but have also bought the 750 gasket, dowels and belt kit with new head bolts.

Will continue this thread with findings and the process. Perhaps you would add photos and notes too?

Hoping I can cure it without having to redo the sleeve sealing etc.

Best regards from Devon UK.
 
Just doing an MGZR with the 1.4 litre K series. Someone used an MLS in the past, but the liners are flush with the block deck face. For the MLS to seal properly, the liners need about 2 thou of an inch stand proud.
BW750 is a much better choice here as it will seal the fire rings adequately.
 
andyfreelandy said:
OK. Thanks have ordered a Bw750, bolts, belt, pump and gasket kit.
I will stay in known territory!!

N series elastomer with multi layers looks good but not sure about ability to deal with used engine and liner levels.
Click to expand...

Does this decision mean you are doing a head gasket repair rather than replacing the engine with the MG6 turbo engine you spoke about in another thread?
 
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