I believe there are 2 temp sensors. On on the inlet manifold for the incoming air temp', coloured green , and the other on the coolant 'outlet elbow' which is just above the exhaust manifold, black [ MEK000030 ] or could be blue [ YCB100420 - needs a different seal [ MDY100080]]. Hope that helps.

Thank you all! @Nodge68 I have the inlet set-up on hand. Will I need to swap over the fuel injectors? I'm going to reshape the inlet port to inlet manifold 'interface' where the castings has a misalignment of about 2mm. I'll trim the gasket to match as the stock ones don't. Will I suffer any...

'Winter project' is now well underway. I got a scrap head to practice on and now I'm well into modding the head I'm going to swap over. Exhaust side mostly done and I've started on the inlet side. I'll send the head off to have the valves unshrouded 2mm, the valves given a 30º back cut and their...

Thanks for the comments gents. I'll organise to replace the brake fluid soon and see if that helps. There's about 3+mm remaining on the brake shoes so I'll probably replace them too.

On the left nearly halfway down on the WoF assessment sheet there is the section "B Road Test" Brake performance is listed as a % figure - Minimum is 50% and mine is commonly just above that!

Better braking would be nice. The main concern for me is that, as it is, I'm continually close to failing the Wof / MoT which looks at the braking effort as a % :( I'm no race driver, quite conservative actually, so in my opinion the brakes work satisfactorily. I did do my own test. At 80kmh on...

My brakes are not great. They have been like that since I've owned the car, bought in 2014. At our WoF time, MoT in the UK, the foot brake test returns 50 to 60 %. There's plenty of meat on the brake pads and shoes. The callipers had seal kits fitted about 3 years ago and new standard pads went...

That's a very informative graph! Thank you. I've been comparing the part numbers on the cams I have with what's listed on rimmers and trying to work out where the FL1s fit into the scheme of things. I'd come to the conclusion that the 1.4, 1.6 & 1.8 pretty much used the same cams. Part numbers...

Do you have the cam spec's that are associated with the different cams? There is some info on this web page re MGF 1.8i [18K4F...] and the early 1.8VVC [18K4K...]. i was wondering about the K engined Rovers like the 200 and 25 as well as the MG ZRs and the FLI of course.

Mine has J79 - is that the st'd K series 1.8 for a Freelander ? It also has the manual tensioner. Are you able to post that info so we can all work out how our FL motors began life? ie from an MG, Rover, LR...?

That is an interesting idea! Personally I'd probably do that cam side as the next step. I'm quite keen on option #1 above but with the larger valves installed and the back trimming done too. Only one way to find out really and that's to give it a go. Like I said, it's my winter project so I'll...

Supercharging - now I have to admit I hadn't thought of that! Basically I'm going to have to take the head of my FL1 as there is a coolant weep below the exhaust manifold and I'm having to keep a very close watch on it and top up about 100ml, that's close to the 'Low' to the 'High' mark. I have...

I was thinking carefully about my 'option #1' above but exploring the possibility of adding in the VVC valves [valve grind and seats recut] and in light of what you suggest dropping in that inlet cam. Essentially leaving the runners & ports as they are but just cleaning them up a bit. This...

Browsing Mr Bell's article here, I noted that the cam numbers for the 135 upgrade to a st'd 1.8 head are the same as the stock cams for a FL1 as listed on rimmers. Interesting - I'll have a gander at the cams that I have here. Below is the table of data from that article. Question: Does anyone...

Ah yes too long eh? Just seeing what advice is out there to guide me! Option 1 looking good!

I won't use the VVC head as it's 'soft' I was thinking of removing the valves and fitting them to the standard K16 head which cam off an MG. I was in error when I said about using the VVC inlet cam/s I should have said the exhaust cam. Are the standard FL1 cams the better option as FLI power...

My winter Workshop project - a more modified head for my K series Freelander 1. I have interesting plans but I am wanting some guidance and advice. My aim is to enhance and improve the torque characteristics of the motor. I certainly don’t want it to guzzle more fuel or hamper it’s current...

I'm not qualified to judge that. But if it's only on that bracket then I can't really see a problem. Will that brake line still be held securely and not vibrate around as it the junction from the rigid brake line to the flexible one which goes to the rear wheel cylinder?

Good springs - I had my local garage fit the springs to the struts - easy job to remove/refit to vehicle - down side is you have to disconnect the rear brake lines to get those ones off/on. Slightly firmer ride and possible 10 to 15mm higher. All works well with my taller mud tyres in the...

Common issue/s = Yes Have a very careful look at the driver's side of the rear sub-frame. The Front mounting point in particular. Use a good torch /light... The chassis rail that the subframe bolts too often cracks at this point.