Ive had someone else tell me similar once (might even have been you for all i can remember! : ) I find that the pipe kinks off to the side if i try. I wanted to do my 300 leak off pipes. Got one section, kind of, just over and then gave up.

Is that the Salisbury that was only fitted to 110s and 130s and never to the 90? I'm not saying they are not Salisbury. Just if they are, they are not original to your vehical.

The pipe doesnt have much stretch in it at all. You can get it in boiling water for a bit of expansion, but, really, not much. Id suggest buying your fittings and measuring them, and then buying pipe to match. I mean 1/2 mm less or whatever, but don't think "I'll get it 2mm too small and...

I did our 101 with clear (makes it simple to see air leaks) nylon pneumatic pipe, with brass inserts and compression fittings.

You dont take the floor out at all. You take of the little triangular panels by the c posts, and slide in the new one from the side. Edit : confused as you say this in your own post (?) The old one doesn't come out that way - you chop that up in situ and scrap it. You slide in the modified...

I have a full size trolley jack strapped down on mine. Which is stupid. But it does work.

Socket set, breaker bar, rubber mallet (wheels have a habit of sticking to the hubs), and jack. Normally a flat head screwdriver, but it's not there currently, and a spare fuel filter.

Did you buy it?

I'll take some photos later for you. Again mine has no trim so should be able to show you stuff.

I changed the front hubs on my 300. I can't remember what I bought - probably just the cheapest - all they are is a big lump of steel.

So long as it spins without conflict, I can't see an issue. We are talking the ones that hold the locking / adjustment plate on the front, right? Iirc on the 300 the edge of the flange runs very close to the edge of the hole in the timing case cover.

As an example, these on eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186764798337 The gap between the holes and the ridge is there and I can't see a significant ridge around the bead. Would these be original and tubeless? (I'm not buying them - I'm just using them as an example)

...is it that the holes are touching the fold on the non OEM ones and there's a bit of a web between the holes and the bend on the OEM?

I'm not the most observant (my partner does the quality control on my work as I just don't see things) but, to me, I can't see what you're seeing between the two photos. Can you point out "wheres wally" to me?

The nicest option would be one of the vdo ones with an electronic sender, like the 300 disco. No more jumpy needle either. They're about £170 though. Maybe even more. But, to answer your question, there's certainly a website somewhere with photos of all the drives and descriptions. I just...

Exactly. The chap has confirmed its cranking. The only relay in the (electrical) area has been confirmed working. I edited the post to be clear that I didn't know if the alarm section somehow fed back to the immobilizer section, but, irrespective of that, a wire to the stop solenoid is the...

Note the alarm / immobilizer on the 300 was so rubbish that, iirc, landrover even gave a part number to the bypass loom. Years ago I had a disco with a 300 that would occasionally fail to start (in this case it was the starter as well as the fuel solenoid, but I guess they can fail in different...

Have a look at the attached screen grab - You're looking at the middle section (it's just a grab from my phone and I can't be bothered to crop it) There's the "ECU engine immobilizer" section on the right hand side. This was probably removed years ago as they were rubbish and would stop no...

Did you just say - Am I reading this wrong? You say it starts with the relay removed? Surely that tells you something? Basically, stop messing about with the relay and run a wire direct to the stop solenoid (also referred to as the fuel solenoid). I know you're convinced it's the relay...

A non EDC 300tdi needs electricity to a grand total of "2" things to start - The starter motor (which you have confirmed is running) and The fuel solenoid on the injection pump. Yours may be an EDC - I don't know. I've made the assumption that it's not, possibly incorrectly. If it isn't an...