Sounds too low. The filling & fluid level check says the box should be 35-40degC. That's after the cold refill & idling after running the box through the various gear selections. This is from the Jatco Decsription Doc. You can check the sensor resistance values.

Also the front bolt is too long to remove with the undertray frame in place. If you undo the six rear bolts & slacken the front two, the tray frame will drop enough to remove the wishbone bolt.

Def a bit overpriced. I wonder if the usual corroded brake pipes have been done, the the last MOT guy just didn't list them ? And it's MOT expires on Weds this coming week !!

This thread on the ZT forums has a couple of interesting pointers. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1979493&postcount=8 The interesting bit covering 5th gear is: The fluid temperature sensor can fail in the following ways: Sensor open circuit Short circuit to 12 or 5...

How badly cracked ? Surely if you just get it to the nearest public highway, then AA will recover it ?

This pic shows one M8, but no idea what size the others should be. AFAIK Generally on a P38, only the engine has imperial nuts & bolts. Rest of the car is all metric.

Andy, did you grab all the Jatco files on my google drive ? One of those docs explains which solenoid combinations are used for each gear shift.

I have one of those Uni-T clamp meters. It's perfectly adequate on the 2A range for checking the sleep mode drain. Ok it can be 10-20mA out, but certainly shows if everything is sleeping properly. Best way to do the BECM sleep test I posted in #32 above is with door open so you can access...

Have you done all the battery drain tests in BECM SID ?

Fluid needs to be N402 equivalent. Not sure about ATF-U, but tomorrow I will check what we used after doing my Son's reverse clutch band. He works in the parts trade, and looked it up on databases us mortals cannot access !!

What do you mean "2-4 solenoid still bad" ? Also what fuild type are you using ?

+2 P38's on MF31-1000

Probably like this one. Can't find the "percent G" on the MOT specs though !!

Did they do it properly with Tapley Meter as recommended by LR ? That's how my local MOT guy does it.

Check all the solenoid resistances & the wiring to the ECU ? Also are you doing the correct fluid fill procedure ? Lots of info in this thread, although the OP never came back with the final result.

Does the vacuum drop immediatly after switching off the engine ? And how long does it take to build up after starting ? If it's slow to build vacuum and eventually holds at 24, maybe the pump is weak, and cannot keep up with braking ?

Thor coolant hoses should be like this:

You cannot clear "EKA Lockout" with keys or Nanocom. Lockout is the delay befor you can enter the EKA - Usually 30mins. Key method should work on any P38 after EKA Lockout has gone, and the dash shows "Engine disabled, Enter EKA". Nanocom method apparently only works on BECM V36 or...

+1 on check for leaks. Also check if the solenoid for that corner is actually triggering in the valve block. With your Nanocom connected & ignition on with engine off, you should hear the solenoids click when you activate them. If one is not operating the bag will not inflate !! Most...

There's threads for exactly that, which use a simply jog remote to enable the P38 receiver to receive the FOB code, and then block the receiver when you're not using the FOB.. This stops it from getting rogue RF signals that wake the BECM & flatten the battery. Search for Jog Remote or similar !!