They still don't drain while the car points uphill, so obviously the drainage isn't effective. If there was a drain on each corner then the water would drain outside rather than inside.

The drain tubes are only at the front so only drain if the car isn't pointing uphill. Would it have taken the sunroof manufacturers much to fit 4.

When I checked my CPS lead I didn't get continuity from the plug to the pins on the red ECU plug. I bought a made up lead from someone whose website I can't remember. Fine after that.

This post shows the leak I had. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/front-sunroof-now-fixed-then-this-at-the-rear-one.346718/

A hosepipe didn't show much on ours but a heavy downpour was dramatic. If you can, park the car uphill when testing with a hosepipe. Although I have two new seals, they weren't needed as sealing the frames properly and sorting out one of the drain spouts cured it.

I found the easiest way was to use a crows foot socket with a long extension to turn the nut.

I missed the bit about the windscreen.lol.

I think the original cable had the star adjustor inside the console, but mine had an aftermarket cable which had a nut underneath to adjust it. Really easy with a crows foot socket.

I am not sure putting Sikaflex into the cooling system is a good idea. Lol.

I would have thought replacing the oil cooler with one from a breakers might do it.

I like them also because they have the groove pattern for the TD5 filter spanner. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-2-Td5-Engine-Oil-Filter-Removal-Spanner-/261644702272?hash=item3ceb3d5240:g:xqoAAOSwm8VUwXe-

The trouble we had with bleeding the clutch was air in the master cylinder. Tried back bleeding from the bottom without any success and also using suction from the bottom. In the end it needed fluid pressure from the reservoir side. I didn't have a top pressuring kit so I improvised with and...

I can't pretend to know much about it but according to Rave the relief valve doesn't open till the pressure reaches 4 Bar.

When we fitted a clutch earlier this year it was the same. Quite a lot of pressure to get the slave in and then a struggle to bleed. In the end one of us used a suction bleeder at the slave nipple while I used an oil can fitted to the pipe from the reservoir and this "push-pull" method sorted it.

I used a piece of this aluminium tube and bonded it in with jbweld. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192444024581?ViewItem=&item=192444024581&var=492455496739 Double check the OD though.

If you have the headlining off then you might as well re-seal the sunroof frames to the roof, as the headlining is the worst part. I used glazing type flat sealing strips on the front sunroof and sealant from a tube on the rear. I also sealed around the cups. I also bought two rubber seals...

I broke my interior mirror with the engine hoist when changing the clutch, but managed to get a good used one.

If/when i eventually get an engine for ours i had thought of putting the oil filter on before fitting engine to car, then I could at least fill the filter. it is hard enough to get the right angle without it being full of oil. I am not sure if there is any reason this isn't a good idea.

I am no expert and I am sure someone will be along shortly. I did fit a new crank sensor cable which came with its own pins for the red plug. I just took out the old pins and replaced with the new ones. If you can get hold of pins for the red plug then just attach wires to these. I am not...

I would just run 5 wires in their own split conduit and attach them to pins on the existing plug.