Hello all, Just looking for some advice. I've got far too many vehicles with 5 landrovers and one Volvo. Only one of the landrovers works and the Volvo is an 09 plate which is very modern for me. Now obviously i hate the Volvo and love the landrovers. The one working landrover is a 110 auto...

You have to know the middle seat occupant very well....changing gear is rather personal. They are quite cheap to pick up and easy to bolt in.

Lots of 'Series 2's' out there which obviously aren't...but sometimes someone could have just replaced the front end and the bulkhead as they could be knackered. Personally i wouldnt touch a 2a without a series 2a bulkead and front end as it could be dodgy and i dont like the look....but depends...

Are you still on a dynamo with your 2a.....they arent the best at charging and it could be knackered...but sounds like the battery

Nice one...and other than lost fuel and getting a lock a cheap fix....i once couldn't get a series 2a petrol started for hours until i noticed i'd disconnected the fuel cut off switch...doh!

One more thing...had a brush cutter with 1 year old petrol which wouldnt start, fuel had gone stale, drained the tank and new fuel started first pull.....how olds the fuel in the tank?

Check your coil....could be fubar if a weak spark....oh and engine earth strap

Hello, My 1965 109" Station Wagon has been fitted with a 6 cylinder front axle (and Salisbury rear). Its a 24 spline axle and it needs new bearings, as i dont know the age of the axle how do i determine which wheel bearings it needs i.e. the early or later type? Thanks

With all those relays and interesting wiring i dont think there is much Series electrics left. At least they used different colored wires though

Think all parabolic s make the LR sit higher

Was it a straight swap?

Or half a ton of bricks in the back

Do they measure HP on the MOT....wow!

My 110 with rear drums came with no cams fitted at all when i bought it.....what a plonker the previous owner was!!

Sills are S2a as is the combined brake and clutch fluid reservoir. Heater, bulkhead and hinges and dash all S3. Front panel could be late 2a but should be lights in centre panel for the age. Defo a bitsa and £4k seems a bit high for non original, failing water pump and duff springs.

Cheaper to line with lead, although might impact perfoirmance

If its got a removable cover then as Colthebrummie says its a Salisbury. But to refurb you'll need a spreader to get the diff out, unlike the rover axles. I've not used them myself but heard parabolic springs can improve the ride significantly.

Welcome and first off check for rust on chassis and bulkhead. If they are fubar then maybe a rethink. Ive got solid discs and drums on my 86 110 CSW with 300tdi and auto box and when setup up right the brakes are fine....mines has new calipers, discs, drums, shoes, cylinders....in fact only bit...

Chaps, Replacing rear wheel cylinder, have new shoes and cylinders but when removing nuts from the wheel cylinder the studs unscrewed. OK so wheel cylinder off but now i have no nuts to put the new cylinder back on. Nuts firmly rust welded to the old studs. Anyone any idea what size they are...

Mudrails might help, more legroom and easier to stretch.