Does the top hose go rock hard? Normal to be firm, just not rock hard. (When up to temp). When you say moisture building up in the oil, how much? Perfectly natural to get a bit of mayo under the oil filler cap during the first few runs. Especially after a rebuild and especially after it's been...

Don't panic yet if you only put it back together and ran it last night, and for only 2 miles. There's lots of air to burp out and it takes a while for the coolant system to settle down again. When I put mine back together it got hotter quickly, then I needed to top up the coolant, then it...

Wasn't there some sort of polystyrene insert that fitted in the spare wheel or something? Mine were just loose behind the curtain when I bought it. You're right, they don't even fit inside each other, let alone anywhere convenient. Typical half hearted effort from British Leyland in the 80s...

Is it hard as in rock hard or hard as in firm? They do get quite firm when the engine is warm. Any water in oil/oil in water?

Thicker oil may help, but better to get them sorted properly. An engine with that mileage will be starting to get a little tired anyway so the 20w50 should help generally. Also, a good thorough service can only be a good thing. Run it for a bit once the new plugs are in and you've done the...

No, valve stem seals wouldn't affect a compression test. They seal the shaft (stem), the valve itself seals the cylinder at compression. Pop a rocker cover off for a visual check of them, you can also assess general condition from there, i.e. is it clean looking or full of black gunk. Yes...

Are you losing much oil/water? What are the levels like? What's the mileage? Oil burning could be tired valve seals perhaps? Water on start up could just be condensation, especially given the cold weather. Does the white smoke/water coming out clear once she's warm?

How dare you.

Usually ****ed. Must've got to this thread through a search. Didn't notice the date, sorry. Was too distracted by the fact that someone had bought a car with a ####ING CORE PLUG MISSING. Will always check in future...

Jesus. That must've been pouring out! You said at the start of the thread you'd just bought the car. Was that plug missing when you made your purchase?! Interesting test drive if it was... Good luck with it.

will do, thanks for the tip

Thanks mate. Appreciate the quick reply. Everything is spotlessly clean already, just put the engine back together. I'll pop the plenum off and have a look, I bet you're right though, it'll be bloody seized!!

1989 3.5 Efi. Wanted to set the butterfly today, using a feeler gauge. Consulted the haynes book of bollocks. I have the correct feeler gauge and I can see the end of the screw I want to adjust, but how do I turn it?!?! Helpful haynes says "use a small allen key"?!?!? Thanks for the specifics...

Exactly that I reckon. How many miles has it done? Could be the switch, if not I'd say it's the pump (happened on a mate's passat a few months ago, oil light flickering on motorway, plenty of oil, turned out to be a knackered pump). If not the pump it could be things wearing in the engine like...

Not a silly question at all, but yes, I did follow the correct sequence. In three stages as well. Cheers for the input though.

Yes, I mean middle exhaust side. It's dry all around the head/block joint except for down the exhaust side. A drip or two a day forms and runs down the side of the block. It's either getting from the ports at the end or the heads are cracked. Both bloody annoying scenarios.

No, it's on the outside, the drip is forming in the middle and running down the outside of the block. The valley is dry, so are the ends of the heads. I wondered if it was leaking from the valley and then running around the heads and dripping off the outside but no such luck. Also on a...

:o I do apologise for the language, but I'm trying to convey the pure, unbelievable frustration at the situation. The block face was as flat as it could possibly be before I put the heads on, checked with a straight edge and feeler gauge. The heads themselves were skimmed before I put them on...

Thanks for that Mark. I did look at them but didn't want to spend £70-80 (minimum) on something I would very, very rarely use. I got a bike inner tube for £3.98, cut the valve bit off with some rubber to spare. This I stretched over the radiator filler neck and fixed on with a jubilee clip. I...

Right, done some research and sort of answered my own question. Bike inner tube, a pump and a bit of cobbling required. Only question now is do I want to attach to the rad or the expansion tank?