I don't think it is. Appears to be part number 335772 which is obsolete. Will keep looking.

Just got a military bonnet with a spare wheel well but only 2 staples for the spare wheel strap. Are they the same as the staples used for the canvas hood - part number RRC3966?? FFG

I'm changing bulbs not the headlight unit so not sure how you can even tell. i agree I don't like the 3 LED units as they are too modern. Its an old truck and I've got old TVR's too but when something needs changing I try to upgrade rather than replace with 1970's technology. It wasn't...

Just tried it and it doesnt hold the pin open but if I use the military locks I'll just put it on for completeness.

Mine are a cold white. At the end of the day being able to see is more important than what they look like surely. I really struggled when I collected the truck in the dark having to drive the 150+ miles back home. Its easily reversible if required.

Series 2, 2a and 3 bonnet locks on e-bay for £48.50, NOS, but only 2 left as I've just bought one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182445115468 £70 + VAT + delivery at John Craddock Also selling seat box locks, with and without the hinges. FFG

Thanks. I've seen the pins and I can see the catch hooks over the pin but what does the other catch do? My bonnet is currently held down wit 2 leather straps in the same position as the military catches, which i much prefer so may put these on, keep my original bonnet and get a hasp lock on...

My Series III has a flat front end which I'd like to return back to original. It still has the front panel win rad fan on the outside but another fan (modern higher power) on the engine side and I've got the lower apron and the grill and just bought the bonnet lock mechanism. Problem is I'm...

80w = 40w each bulb ie less than the original 55w. Also found this: http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/images/Data_Sheets/JWS/LRM_LED_Headlights.pdf I've replaced the sidelights and rear/brake lights and you can at least now see the back of the truck. Replaced the rear lights with the same ones I...

Series 3 with one rounded Lucas unit (possibly original) which is going brown on the bottom, the other side has a cheaper flat unit (Autopa?) but the fixing is rubbish (plastic ring that clips on which actually just pops off) so it just wobbles in the housing. Got 2 new Lucas round face units...

£40 for 2mm: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2-2A-3-CHEQUER-PLATE-FLOOR-PANELS-A-PAIR-/302198463538?hash=item465c6e9c32:m:m6jV82Ov8verc3MhszR03Ag £53 for 3mm...

This may help: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-gauge-not-reading-correctly.306805/

I doubt you'd need an inch as the holes probably wouldn't line up but 3-5mm would be enough. When I replaced the splash plates there is a 90 degree angled piece on the underside of the top of the wing which is fibreglass. I've put a piece of plastic across covering the 2 bolts holes to spread...

Try this first: https://www.gov.uk/get-vehicle-information-from-dvla

I've bought the same relay which is pre wired. The ignition + and the battery - are connected by a loop wire which isnt on the diagram on the internet tools website picture in my original post which I think I need to take out - any advice. I'm awaiting the rocker switches so I can isolate the...

I found the part number in the parts manual but it don't give sizes. Found one on a LR specialist and this was the size but both mine are over an inch long which doesn't seem to make any difference. Many thanks. The plastic one looks shocking TBH. It like someone had a spare plastic screw...

Anyone know what thread and length I need? I've got one very long metal bolt with a hex head and a plastic stud (no idea what it is from) the other side and want to replace them both for something more original. The thread is close to M6 but not quite - I think the thread pitch is finer...

If you lift up the drivers seat you'll see a panel covering the fuel tank. If you remove the screws (you will need to push the seat frame fully forward to access the 2 rear ones) and remove the plate you will see the top of the tank and the sender. I unscrewed all of the studs holding the...

Just to let people know I had a dodgy gauge that read 1/2 then somewhere around a quarter when I knew it was full. After some testing finally worked out is was the earthing to the tank as when I put an earth from the battery to the plate on the sender it read full. So added an earth wire which...

Just use the biggest philips head bit you have. If you have a driver with bits then you should have one big enough. Then put this into a rachet drive in your socket set and once you break the seal you're away. Not sure if you can get to the back of the stud with the WD40 from under the bonnet...