stag888

Active Member

• Oct 19, 2016

• #1

Hi All,
Need to adjust my drivers door , so plan to slacken off the hinges , however get the feeling the screws are going to put up some mighty resistance , am worried about damaging the heads and finding having to drill / cut / replace ,so am keen to get prepared . I gather the screws are posidrive , so need to buy the right size screwdriver - but what size are the heads ? - does any one know ?
Cheers Steve

 

Turboman

Mab An Gov

• Oct 19, 2016

• #2

stag888 said:

Hi All,
Need to adjust my drivers door , so plan to slacken off the hinges , however get the feeling the screws are going to put up some mighty resistance , am worried about damaging the heads and finding having to drill / cut / replace ,so am keen to get prepared . I gather the screws are posidrive , so need to buy the right size screwdriver - but what size are the heads ? - does any one know ?
Cheers Steve

Click to expand...

If they haven't been out for years, you might as well go straight to drilling.

 

J

John S

Well-Known Member

• Oct 19, 2016

• #3

X1 on drilling. You could try unscrewing but it's a high likelihood of seized bolts. They secure to the door post's with a captive nut that hangs off a slot in the post. To simply this can be a bit of a flaff to get the screw out. Advise ordering new screws and nuts. YSM Solutions sell in kits.

 

Turboman

Mab An Gov

• Oct 19, 2016

• #4

John S said:

X1 on drilling. You could try unscrewing but it's a high likelihood of seized bolts. They secure to the door post's with a captive nut that hangs off a slot in the post. To simply this can be a bit of a flaff to get the screw out. Advise ordering new screws and nuts. YSM Solutions sell in kits.

Click to expand...

That's right. Get the stainless door screw kit, and the little gaskets that go between the hinge and the pillar, and then drill out the old ones. The original cage nuts are never re-useable either.

 

FFG

Active Member

• Oct 19, 2016

• #5

I got mine out after some liberal squirts of WD40 behind the spacers so it would run down onto the studs and used the largest philips head driver I had in my socket set. Now replaced hinges with heavy duty ones (the drivers side had a lot of play in it) with stainless bolts (also for the doors and the mirrors) and new spacers. These ones:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291572537501?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Always put copperslip on any bolts screws I put back (stainless or otherwise).
FFG

 

R

RobertP

Active Member

• Oct 19, 2016

• #6

When I needed to remove my hinges I bought an impact driver, expecting a lot of trouble. The screws actually came out quite easily, using my biggest Phillips screwdriver. I'm not boasting, but it is worth trying before you assume the worst!

 

stag888

Active Member

• Oct 20, 2016

• #7

Thanks ,
Good reminder to get the WD40 on early , will give them a good spray tomorrow & Friday ready for the weekend , have stainless replacement bolts on the way , not planning to change the hinges as don't seem to have much slack / movement . I see the main adjustment being to move the bottom hinge slightly towards the rear , as I need raise the door up by 1/4" by the lock , we'll see , am sure it'll be more involved than I expect . Still non the wiser as to which Pz size the screws are , may have to just take one of the door bolts out , as they look easier and just take it down to the local Machine mart & offer it up until I get a snug fit, rather than guess and order .
Cheers

 

FFG

Active Member

• Oct 20, 2016

• #8

Just use the biggest philips head bit you have. If you have a driver with bits then you should have one big enough. Then put this into a rachet drive in your socket set and once you break the seal you're away. Not sure if you can get to the back of the stud with the WD40 from under the bonnet or at the base of the windscreen?

 

Land Raver

Well-Known Member

• Oct 21, 2016

• #9

I think with a long straw you should be able to squirt some wd40 or shock and unlock sort of stuff up the box section of the pillar fron underneath. Likewise it's a good idea to wax up there too.

 

stag888

Active Member

• Oct 24, 2016

• #10

Did the business over the weekend , top screws no issue , bottom ones totally immoveable , drilled them out with ease & and swapped with stainless, managed to get the adjustment I was looking for , so the door gap /seal is much better . The most valuable tool turned out to be a small powerful magnet on the end of a stick , used it a couple of times to recover the captive nut thingy as it dropped the base of the pillar . It was a good opportunity to check the state of the bulk head & spray some Waxoyl inside - All very solid - Excellent .
Cheers Steve