+1 on Erik's post. If you prefer to use a double relay, you could use something like this, which is basically just two relays in a single package: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/728/category/36 Some kind of inline or strip fuse in the feed into the relays would be a good...

It sounds like you have a shorted condenser and that has fried the coil. When you say "new Lucas 45" do you mean a genuine Lucas part or one of the many copies? A while back I got a copy 45D4 as a spare, then some months later I had points problems and thought I'd use the points and condenser...

Understood, thanks. I've never had a problem with Lucas switches, but there was a recent thread where one overheated badly: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fire-well-lots-of-smoke-and-such-like.346573/ so it makes sense to me to protect both the panel switch and the low/high-beam column...

In mystery's excellent diag above, the full headlight current is still going through the light switch, which somewhat negates the benefit of the relays. My suggestion would be to feed the relays (terminal 30) direct from the solenoid/battery via a strip fuse - although I would still use the...

Yes, on the Weber 34ICH you can just unscrew the idle jet, give it a blast with some carb cleaner or compressed air and put it back. The idle jet has an O-ring, so have a look at that as well - if it's worn or brittle it's probably time to overhaul the carb.

+1 on Col's post. The blue wire goes to terminal 8 on the light switch. It's the input to the dip/main switch on the combination indicator + lights stalk.

I think you've got a dud regulator (or two). I've heard similar complaints on the forum before, even with new replacement parts. You could try Dunsfold for a genuine one (likely to be expensive though) or you could open it up and see if the input terminal is touching the case somewhere -...

As you've likely already discovered, Series Land-Rovers have very basic electrics. The Series 2 had only two fuses, the Series 3 has one extra (two extra if you count the inline fuse for the heater fan). The most high-tech it gets is some transistors in the alternator regulator! Many circuits...

The regulator case shouldn't be live - that will blow the fuse for sure. But be aware that the regulator has a coil inside between the output terminal and the case, so the casing may appear to be live when checked on the bench with a multimeter. You could check the resistance between the input...

I'm not sure about Santana versions, but on a standard Series 3 petrol only 3 of the 4 fuses are used: fuse 1-2 is the headlamp flash (always live) fuse 3-4 is spare fuse 5-6 is the indicators (turn signals) and the wiper/washer motor (live when ignition on) fuse 7-8 is the brake lights and...

Sounds like a short to earth somewhere, maybe caused by pulling the dash out to change the stabiliser. Check the input wire to the stabiliser (green) and then try disconnecting the feed from the stabiliser to the gauges (light green wire). If the fuse still blows, it's likely the stabiliser...

It may be the solder itself? Solder for SMD work is different to the older stuff that contained resin flux. I suspect resin flux solder is no longer available for H&S reasons, but it's the best for electronics work if you can find it. As Col said, everything needs to be clean and ideally tinned...

Glad it's all working. If your Landy "to do" list is anything like mine, I'm sure it's on to the next job while the days are long and the weather good!

When the engine is running, the points are closed about 50% of the time, so the average power into the coil is less. If the engine is stopped with the points open, there's no current into the coil at all, but if the points are closed, current is flowing 100% of the time, hence more heat to be...

Making a full harness from scratch is quite a big job. It's easier if you have an existing one to copy, but even then it's probably cheaper to buy a ready-made replacement. However, if you want to add extra fuses or relays etc then you will need to DIY. I've never seen a wiring diagram that...

You can also use the "heater" output as a guide: heater cold = engine cold heater lukewarm = engine normal temp heater hot = engine overheating ;)

If the carb came from a 2.5 then it may have slightly different jets to the 2.25. I doubt that would be a big problem, but if you're going to overhaul it anyway, you might as well check it out. The jets (and other parts) are all available from Weber agents. Out of interest (I have a 2.5 engine...

Scary! :eek: Did you find out what part of the brake system failed? +1 on Rob's comment on front/rear split. A diagonal split would require a lot of extra pipework and flexi's, all of which is adding more places for a failure to occur, which is maybe why manufacturers went to front/rear?

Welcome to the joys of old Land Rovers! A laser thermometer will give you some peace of mind that it's not actually overheating, then you can spend the next few days/weeks/months figuring out why the gauge is wrong... If your engine is from a 90/110, it should have an 11H engine number, in which...

Yep, it's a fiddly job, especially if you have an overdrive fitted. I spent a few hours 2 weeks ago replacing a snapped speedo cable only to find the inner cable was slightly short, so the whole lot came off and another (supposedly genuine) cable went on last Sunday. It's a bit easier the second...