+1 for getting the engine good and hot and avoiding short trips. But also check the breather pipes are clear and actually connected. There will always be some water vapour in the rocker cover and if the breather is blocked it's got nowhere to go, except to condense inside the cover. I think a...

+1 on MegaMan's response. The diagram in the Haynes manual shows the terminal furthest from the bracket as the input from battery, but I don't see that it matters electrically which way round these two terminals are connected.

The internal filter is available as a separate part: https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/weber-carburettors-parts/carburettor-parts-weber-carburettors-parts/idf-parts/internal-fuel-filter-2/ but, as Marmaduke said, you might be better off with a full rebuild kit if you're not sure what state the...

I think Wildefalcon is right - it does look like the front cover on the 11H or 17H engine. In which case the engine number should be where he says: above the plate where the fuel pump is mounted, to the left of the dizzy. Good news if you have one of these, especially the 17H!

The bulb wattage isn't critical, but it does make a difference. I replaced a dud bulb with one of unknown wattage I found at the bottom of the spares box and found it took a few more revs before it went out, so I splashed out on a new 2.2W bulb and it went off at lower revs. In theory, you can...

Strange that you can't find the 4TR. :confused: But one of the challenges with old Landy ownership is that previous owners could have changed stuff and you end up with a mix of old and new bits that take some head scratching to figure out. From what I recall, there was a batch of late 2A models...

Sounds like you have the 11AC alternator that was fitted to some late 2A models. The relay is a field isolator and there should be a 4TR regulator somewhere as well. Low output voltage could be down to lots of things e.g. bad connections/wiring, worn brushes in the alt or a dodgy regulator, but...

Strange :confused:. In theory the Smiths gauges don't need a stabiliser - the design compensates for changes in input voltage - but I guess it's harmless to use one. Mine don't have the stabiliser and are actually quite accurate (at least by Series 3 standards). But over the past few years I've...

If your gauges look like this (with a blank instead of the oil temp) then you have the Smiths gauges. Check also if they say "SMITHS" at the top. Most of the military Series 3 had these gauges fitted. They are a bit different to the Jaeger gauges fitted to most non-military LR. The Jaeger gauges...

Joe, assuming you have the Smiths gauges (3-way cluster with fuel, oil temp, water temp) then they don't use a voltage stabiliser. But while you're in the dash, check that all the earth connections are clean and tight.

Here's a thread where this issue has been discussed: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sender-unit-fuel-gauge-issues.360126/ Basically, the Smiths gauges in the military Ser 3 can be troublesome. They need to be earthed properly or they will read high, but they also suffer from internal...

+1 on checking for loose or corroded connnections. From the symptoms you describe, I'd check the main feed (brown wire) from the starter motor to the ignition switch, but that assumes the wiring is more or less original and it sounds like a previous owner has bodged it... Good luck!

Yes, the manifolds from the 2.25 will fit the head no problem, but there may be a clearance issue with the starter motor. The exhaust downpipe on the 2.5 manifold is slightly further forward than on the 2.25. I'm building a 2.5 engine at the moment, but haven't got as far as fitting the starter...

I suspect you have the "detoxed" engine that has an EGR valve connected to the exhaust manifold (the EGR and its fittings are frame 1C14 in the parts book). I think most people have removed these long ago and just blanked off the port on the manifold.

Good news that you're getting better readings off the new gauge! I don't think these gauges are adjustable (unlike the thermal ones that have adjustment slots in the back). There are two resistors on the back of the gauge that are probably selected to calibrate the gauge in the factory, but I've...

That there box is the flasher unit and the earth connection looks ok. So as long as the indicators/hazards are working I'd say it's ok. It's quite likely that over the years your Landy has had one or more replacement engines, so the lack of military sump is not too surprising. You might find a...

These are to connect an inspection lamp (or a battery trickle charger), assuming you can find a plug that fits. They're directly connected to the battery (sometimes via a fuse on the military Landies). The oil temp gauge reads from a sender in the sump, on the opposite side to the drain plug...

Nick, those gauges look in better condition than mine! But they are fragile things in my experience - they use coils of fine wire that seems to break or become disconnected from the terminals. I've attempted to repair one, but they are not designed to be dismantled - I guess an instrument...

Rob, it's been a while since I last saw one of these, but a bit of research shows the black/white wire is an earth and black/red goes to the warning light terminal on the flasher unit. Here's a diagram from https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/

I got a chain from Turner's. Not sure if it's genuine LR but in my experience they don't sell the poor quality stuff.