Did you check the plugs?

I tapped a screwdriver between my springs and squirted some oil in but its a slow process, and pull the screwdriver out slowly or you'll get squirted in oil. Now noticed the outside of the damper has a hole in it and the rest of the top section is thin so bought some new Armstrong dampers with...

It should be fairly obvious by just looking at the hole in the rim. Even I could tell it was bigger on mine and I'm not looking at them every day. Suggest you try another fitter. I asked about fitting tubes as its a dying trade and most younger generation have no idea that cars had tubes...

Not sure if these guys could help: https://goosefootpanels.co.uk/shop?olsPage=products FFG

Wasn't saying the plugs had gone bad but just wondered what colour they were. You say its running rich but is it really. My TVR did and I had to run out the garage when I reversed it in as the stink was incredible. Now not rich but still splatters anything behind on start up.

Sounds a similar set up to my TVR engine, which is a 4.3. Is it still on the Lucas 14CUX? Have you checked the plug colour (BPR6ES is a good choice). If its pulling well its going to be a difficult one to solve - always better when something fails.

Sorry, didn't seem to go first time around so sent again, hence the double post. Can't find a delete option.

Black plugs. I'd change the plugs and see what they look like after a few hundred miles. The colour should tell you a fair bit and go from there. What spec is it - carbs, injected, flapper, stepper ,ECU?

Put these in the Landy (or is it the offset pin type - BAZ15D) and they are plug and play: https://www.car-mod-shop.co.uk/380cree-80-rx2-pair-80w-bay15d-red-1156-380-cree-12v24v-high-power-led-bulbs-stoptail-etc.html Not cheap but works and are nice and bright but out of stock at the minute...

Thanks. The Facet fuel pump is supposed to be 12 inches max above the bottom of the tank - its about 3 foot now so may be the issue.

Moving my facet fuel pump from the splash guard to near the tank as its too high above the tank and is taking time to pick up when in lower gears (assume getting air in the system) so hopefully moving the pump much lower will solve the problem, and the splash guard is being replaced so didn't...

Thanks, never heard of one!!! Take it that its 1/4 UNF thread? Any LR suppliers have them? Anyone have a part number (is it 79240)?

After turning the Landy on its side I've lost one of the binnacle fixings (i'd replaced the the set screws with a stainless one 1/4unf x 1/2 long) but I've also lost the brass thing that sits in the back part of the dash binnacle. Is it called a ferrule?? From memory its about 1/2 long and has...

Its gone now but may need to plan ahead more next time. Not sure what I need yet as its the n/s rear wing and the rear panel so unsure if I just change them or a tub change is a better option. Not too concerned about the roof and sides as was going canvas anyway so now is an ideal time to do that.

Could collect in the Landy but the wheel isn't straight and still going through the insurer so can't drive it. No other vehicle with a towbar.

Had an incident with the Landy and a caravan which meant the Landy on its side so need a new n/s so is buying a tub a better option - side and rear are crushed. its an 88 SW and one on flea but how do I get it home? FFG

What engine and hold old? Does it have AFM or stepper motor?

Or try self amalgating tape. It sticks to itself unlike electrical tape which is a bitch to get off. Plenty for sale on f-bay.

Be good to see a picture of the whole engine. May help, but many of the bits can be swapped/changed/upgraded so may still be hard to tell. Mine off a P6B auto and the dizzy has 1971 stamped on it.

Under the inner handle there is a round spacer which is held in place by a spring. If you push the spacer in you'll see a split pin which holds the inner handle on. If you remove that it will all come apart - be careful not to lose the spring.