Is yours a 88" or 109"? I believe early 109s had rover axles but were changed to Salisbury axles due to this problem. Less of an issue with 88" models but you do read of a few that break. Let's not forget that modern tyres are grippier than old cross plies too which all adds to the strain on...

Seemingly a common failure and it's like a 'fuse' in the drive train. Might be lucky and the break will be at the when end but more commonly they break at the diff end so diff needs to come out to remove the broken bit.

When I eventually found an old stock Lucas brand that was made correctly, I bought a spare in case of future need. Typically it's been fine since but always good to squirrel away these things. @ObiWanKenobi - I enjoy reading your publications - great looking Landy you have there too :)

I find it takes a good 30-40 minute run to get the bottom hose warm.

Can't you bribe the tester with a Toblerone? Failing that, UK eBay could be worth scanning.

I can't remember reading about that one. What a nice find though.

I'd remove the skin and take a look. You might find £15k in cash stuffed between the skins, or even a few kilos of Charlie.

I fitted a new Hardy Spicer rear prop 3 years back. The gearbox end UJ was much stiffer than the diff end and at the time I was a bit concerned about it. First few runs (less than 6 miles each) it got very warm, bordering hot. After half a dozen shortish runs it stopped getting hot so I assumed...

Sounds like the handbrake could be sticking - this results in a clunking when moving at slow speeds and hightlights all the back lash in the drive train. It always feels like a big gearbox / transmission issue when its the hand brake catching - clunking and knocking.

I think you're about right there 1-1.5 flats if I remember correctly. I do mine by feel. I re checked mine after about 1,000 miles (last year). The drivers side had a little play which I removed.

Then keep the 22"" wheels

My 2.25d sits on the bottom of the N when up to temperature. If the outside temperature is over 25 degrees and I'm going up an incline or have all the family loaded in and pushing 45-50mph for a while it can rise to midway or rarely above midway. It never gets near the red. I would thoroughly...

Jones springs have a decent reputation. Avoid Britpart - read at least 3 horror stories where they don't fit correctly.

The box spanner is worth buying. If you're keeping your Land Rover you'll get your money's worth from it. Chisels are for bodgers (and wood carvers). :)

To be honest I'd just live with that. Grind slightly too far and the galv is gone exposing the weld.

My galv bulkhead was the same - looks like the welds weren't ground down where the top corner pieces were put in. Apparently galv sticks thicker to welded bits. I suppose it's just thick galv that could be ground back but I chose to live with mine on the mindset that thicker galv is better than...

I haven't fitted relays to my halogens. It's something I've often considered but I do such small mileage and probably only drive it in the dark twice a year. Maybe one day...

I run 7.50 x 16 radials. (Michelin xzl). Radials are much grippier that the old crossplys on tarmac and I find running them at higher pressure makes the steering a little lighter and less strain on the half shafts perhaps. Probably a firmer ride but it's a Series Landy, not a jag.

Horrible news. I hope it wasn't arson / break in. Wasn't it Huddersfield Land Rover Centre who suffered a similar incident 12-18 months ago? Must be devastating for the owners. Just where do you start?

I had similar experience with mine. I replaced all steering ball joints and rebuilt the hubs. It's improved but on county lanes and odd cambers, it still needs plenty of input to proceed in a straight line. I think most Series Landrovers have actually done 10% less miles than the clock says -...