stag888

Active Member

• Sep 9, 2019

• #1

Hi
My Series 3 has started to running hotter , used to run dead centre , now pushing up close to the red . started to check a few things

• Checked previous posts for some guidance
• Replaced thermostat , did test old one , and it certainly didn’t open as much as new one
• Checked rad , disconnected bottom hose , used the garden hose and water flowed straight through, that seems fine
• Heater works , hot water makes it through heater pipes in & out & it blows as warm as used to
• However the bottom hose remains dead cold , I run it for 15/20 minutes , temp goes up & whilst top is hot , it’s that that bothers me, and makes me question flow

Starting to think the water pump may be u/s , but before I go out and change that I’m keen to check I haven’t overlooked anything obvious .
Any guidance much appreciated
Cheers Steve

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Sep 9, 2019

• #2

Fan belt tight/good ? even if spinning were it loose or very worn it this can result in it slipping and not pumping properly.

 

stag888

Active Member

• Sep 9, 2019

• #3

Thanks , but fan belt ok , pump & fan turning

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #4

With the rad cap off and engine up to temp you can normally see the flow coming into radiator if series type.

 

stag888

Active Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #5

Hi
OK thanks I'll give that a go tonight, I suppose that's exactly what I was asking how can I telI I have circulation. I have a sinking feeling that there is little flow or movement . I was also thinking of disconnecting the fan belt just to check the pump , although it's not leaking was keen to see if there is any play, noise or friction , plus also planning to carefully disconnecting the heater return pipe whilst running to see if I had flow / pressure .
Found the attached which helped my thought process

 

stag888

Active Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #6

Well checked water pump , no wobble, spins relatively smoothly , checked rad with cap off and yes the water does move , and increases in line with revs , doesn't seem like a huge amount , but then not sure how much the pump is expected to displace , so it is working . Temp still goes up to close to the red after 15/ 20 minutes of idle , and bottom hose still cold . I think next thing on the cheap check list will be the temp sender , and once I've got a replacement battery for my temp gauge I'll check the block temp .

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #7

For getting the bottom hose warm I think you need to take it for drive, just running for 15/20 min's is not enough, could be temp sender playing up or voltage regulator. Is the fuel gauge behaving?

 

C

Citizen Kane

Well-Known Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #8

Not nice but it may be the head gasket.

 

stag888

Active Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #9

I should get the temp sender in at the weekend , and can take it for a longer run then , let’s see what does .... fuel gauge seems to be behaving , so perhaps not voltage regular . Will see the weekend brings before I start thinking head gasket
Cheers

 

W

Webley1991

Well-Known Member

• Sep 10, 2019

• #10

Do you have a multimeter to test the sender? I posted the resistance numbers for a range of temperatures a few days ago. You may find that useful.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...al-operating-temperature.349986/#post-4653923

 

stag888

Active Member

• Sep 11, 2019

• #11

No multimeter at the moment , but will follow up - Thanks

 

Land Raver

Well-Known Member

• Sep 15, 2019

• #12

I find it takes a good 30-40 minute run to get the bottom hose warm.