In which case, I wouldn't bother with new bolts for the sump. Torque setting is pretty mild (they only have to hold crank case pressure, negligible compared to cylinder pressure) and they're highly unlikely to be corroded in

Did mine recently, biggest fight was getting the cross-member off. YMMV, but I'd prepare to use brute force and ignorance on the majority of the criss-member bolts, and have enough new nuts and bolts on hand to remove and replace all 8 captive nuts (you can punch them off upwards through the...

Nice vid! And plenty of ideas to try, thanks for the link

...but now doesn't. Now cranks endlessly on the first try, but starts first time on the second. Not noticed any spluttering or smoke or other ill-effects. Just started happening. Likely to be fuel-related?

"Middlish Clunkybangs" - shoo-in for the next Sherlock, you heard it here first

+1 on the crow's foot, and yes they warp. Check out the daylight ...

Mine blew after I, ahem, watered it inadvertently. Seemed odd that just a bit of water would do that, but I've since fixed a leak from the inlet manifold which was dumping a steady stream of (carbon-rich) black carp through the alt. My working theory: carp in the alt + water = trouble Is the...

The expansion cap should always vent before your hoses leak. Assuming (1) your cap isn't faulty and (2) there's nothing preventing pressure changes communicating within the system (e.g a blockage), a leaky hose is just a leaky hose, whether or not there's trouble in t'head gasket.

I fitted a genuine top hose a year back, tried the spring clips, tried the jubilees, but every time a leak after a few outings. What fixed it: Mikalor heavy duty clips torqued to 4Nm, and retorqued every weekend since. 1000 miles later, no more leaks. Yes, I realise it's insane, but that's...

I once fried my alternator by accidentally pouring water into it whilst degreasing that side of the engine. It produced acrid smoke for a surprisingly long time until I disconnected the battery. Check for sh*te in the alt?

Perfect, I'll ask my local indie to try it next time it's in for something I can't/won't touch. Got me thinking: I wonder if the "occasional use" duty cycle is what does for these motors. You can imagine if they turned for a few minutes a week, say, that would tend to drive any bits of rust out...

Finally got round to fitting that condenser fan motor. Motor I got off ebay from US was a perfect substitute (even down to the fitting to fix the electrical connector onto the bracket on the fan cage) Usual complications of rusted-in bolts aside, all went smoothly. Fan spins up nicely if I...

They pass either side of the central tunnel, you can actually get at them with your fingers from inside the car through the gap at the top of the footwell trim. The run is short, predominantly in soft rubber. In a pinch, you might have some joy just squeezing the duct with your fingers to...

Door mirror got whacked, mirror glass popped out and motor pack stopped adjusting left-right. Didn't fancy beaker prices for an entire mirror assembly, and doesn't seem like the D2 motor packs are sold as a separate item, but whilst googling about I noticed this Mondeo/Galaxy/Vectra motor pack...

I admit I didn't search that hard - just digging those two up was roughly my arsedness limit in this hot weather ;) Happy enough given the saving over the list price for the fan assembly, so thanks again for the help

TYC 630870 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172301390556 - 38.66 + 30.38 shipping VDO PM9261 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351881004172 - 43.77 + 13.50 shipping

Thanks for all the advice folks, I've ordered the PM9261 from a US seller on eBay

Hmm, but PM9261 recommended here by sierrafery - http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f40/condenser-fan-35425/#/topics/35425 Which one is Spartacus?

Interesting steer - did a quick Google, seems like a few different opinions on the closest like-4-like match, with VDO PM9128 seemingly the connoiseur's choice.

Mine being seized (which seems to be the norm) and interested in getting better a/c oomph at low speeds and high ext temps, interested in thoughts on replacement. Q1: seem to be two variants of the part - JRP100060 and JRP100000 - what's the difference? Q2: neither is cheap, any testimonials...