Tim, Did you get it done? Glen.

Our 1999 TD5 has the basic CD changer and it's a Phillips system.

Our TD5 does this on the front and back. I think the springs in the wiper arms have gone weak, as they don't seem to go back onto the screen with much force when you pull them away.

Did you check the flange to pick-up point measurement on the pump, and compare it with the flange to tank bottom measurement?

Get the pump out again and take some measurements of the pick up point and the depth of the tank, relative to the pump mounting flange. If there is a discrepancy, then the wrong pump has probably been fitted.

I didn't realise PlusGas was still available, in that case I will pick up a can. Personally I think WD40 is rubbish, it seems to evaporate off in about 5 minutes, it really is only good as a water dispersant. I have several good sets of allen keys, so no worries there.

Thanks for the replies. I will have to start dousing the bolts with 3 in 1 regularly, and hope that they come out alright. There is no cat on our car anyway, as it is a 1999 model. Understood about all the sh*te entering the engine, that's one of the main reasons I did it on the 320d...

Did you both notice a decent improvement in performance and economy?

Our TD5 needs a bit of money spending on it, so I was thinking of doing an EGR bypass along with all of the other bits (new shocks, steering damper, front propshaft, fixing the leaking sunroofs etc.). I fitted one to our old E46 BMW 320d which had a stub on the side to which the pipe from the...

Is it definitely in high ratio? Our TD5 auto has occasionally popped out of high ratio and into neutral, resulting in lack of drive.

Looks like you are due 12 months worth of updates on that thread!!

Are you using the welder in gasless mode with the flux cored wire?

Far better to be criticised for being helpful than for being rude and obstructive to a new member! I know when I have posted problems on here myself it has been you has replied with useful information (and a few well known others) and not Freelaner!

Latest so far on this: - Tapped the front LH sensor in and cleared the code. ABS light came on again. Got excessive air gap blink code for rear RH wheel sensor. Tapped both rear sensors in, to be sure, and cleared the code. ABS light came on again. Got excessive air gap code for the...

Have found the relay and done the blink test, it gave 2-14 which is front LH wheel sensor air gap. This was the wheel that failed the MOT on the bearing, which has now been done, so I guess this being worn could have knocked the sensor out. How exactly do I knock it back into position?

Thanks. So it must K103 that I remove to do the blink codes? I think I have read that this is one of the green relays in the tray below the ABS ECU.

So which of the green relays is the ABS warning light one that you need to pull out for the blink test?

Where can I find the ABS warning light relay?

Thanks for the pictures. We did find that the earthing points on the first connector on the battery cable were all loose, and we thought that this might be the problem but although the light stayed out initially this time, it then came on after about 100 yards. I wonder if the earthing...

It came on again on the way to the MOT station. Apparently it was flashing in time with the indicators, so I suspect a bad earth to the ABS ECU. Does anyone know where the earth point for the ABS ECU is?